For the areas on the sheet rock where the top layer of paper has pulled off.
what is better
1. Paint them first with primer, then sheetrock mud to level it
or
2 sheetrock mud first then the paint primer??
seems the mud would stick better if the sheet rock had been painted first??? (choice 1??)
Replies
prime mud prime
Replace the drywall.
my vote is with dan. prime with oil,then mud,if you have a lot to do look at a tool called a magic trowel and skim with mud,prime again. larry
if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
Another vote for prime, mud, prime, but I use shellac-based BIN for the prime. Nearly instant drying, & smells good for a very short time, due to the volatility of the alcohol solvent.
Oil based primer will work, of course, but to me, the odor is a real deterrent -
Edited 1/23/2008 9:43 am ET by kate
One of the reasons that you want to seal it first it is that you will have a lot fo fuzzy bits that will come off when skim coating. Also somethings the torn paper will blister when skim coating.IN addtion to Bin I have used latex stain blocking primers such as SW ProBlock or Bullseye 123.But Zinser also makes a latex sealer specifically for this purpose, Gardz.http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=27After sealing and it dries you want to sand over it to get rid of any nubbies that stick out.Last week I had a strange one.The HO just PULLED the old wall paper off. Include areas that they could not reach. They told me that it had been papered before and the person that replaced it said that they did not use any sizing oringinally and it was hard to get the old paper off. And he made sure to put on a heavy coat of sizing.But the walls where full of paste. It was a heavy sticking paste. After scraping as much area as I could get with one or 2 placements of the ladder I had to empty my bucket at is had 2-3" of paste in the bottom. And then go back and wash those sections with clear water. I understand it was a clay based paste.It required so much scraping and scrubing to get the paste off that it wore through the sizing in places and washed out the DW compound under it. The sizing was some kind of transparent rubbering material.Since the paper was not torn I did not prime before patching.And after priming with problock and 2 coats of paint on the final coat I still had an area where the something, apparently the sizing, wrinkled up. It soon relaxed after drying..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I'm not the OP, but those are the the joys of old house work...
(Don't tell anybody, but I kind of enjoy wallpaper stripping & paint scraping - weird, I know, but such gratification when it goes from horrible to decent!)
Which is extremly fortunate, as the 300-year-old house was a mess...
Yeah, last time I use the shelac-based BIN and it worked out well. (If you don't count my mudding skills, that is.) The BIN stiffens the paper without causing it to swell, and it has good "tooth" for the mud.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
I slightly disagree with the good tooth part regarding the alcohol based primers. The tooth isn't horrible, but it isn't as good as a regular primer.However on a small area, the quick drying time might still make it the top choice. And it has great stain (and deep color) blocking attributes.I put regular primer over everything, after spot priming with the shellac. But that's a different sequence of events.
> Oil based primer will work, of course, but to me, the odor is a real deterrentYou definitely need some ventillation with the BIN too, or someone'll have to tie you down to keep you from flying up and hitting the ceiling.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
One of the perks of the job...8>)