I’m working on a budget for a seasonal camp in the Adirondack’s in NY. Since I’m planning to use a wood horizontal siding, can I avoid sheeting the exterior if I use metal or let-in braces. After standing the walls with the bracing, I would Tyvek then apply a 3/4″ wood v-grove siding. Would this be OK or do I need the structural component of the sheeting? Framing would be 2X6. Is any more information needed? Thanks.
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not a good plan..Vgroove siding really belongs vertically... that should be what the "V" stands for, not "H" siding, or "D" (diagonal) but if you must, I'd still sheathe and tarpaper behind it.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Edited 9/19/2004 6:59 pm ET by Dez
I haven't been to the mill to see the choices for siding, maybe v-groove isn't what I meant. I was just wondering if bracing behind a horizontal siding would suffice without the sheeting. Seems like a lot of wood if I were to do both... and with the price of sheeting now. I may end up with a rough sawn clapboard. Thanks for the responses.
When i worked as a framer, we often just sheathed the corners with plywood, or used kerf braces let into the corners. Seems like the latter would work fine in your case.
I just ran into a material I nevr used before ...
ThermoPly.
it was under some aluminum siding I stripped ... since I'm only changing out a window and some rot ... I found some more and that's what got patched on as the sheathing.
Not that I'd consider using it for anything structural ... it says it is?
the house hasn't fallen down .. so it must work.
Just looked to check the reciept ... can't find it. Have no idea what I paid ...
just called in and put it on my account ... but I'm thinking it was pretty cheap.
Might be worth looking into ...
"radiant" shinny metalic side ... about a fat 8th inch thick ...
was like working with thick cardboard that made for a great sun reflector ....
original was stapled on.
came in typical 4x8 sheets ... and they bend pretty easy to fit into the back of a loaded van.
Jeff
Buck Construction, llc Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
I believe the bracing will be fine. I'd use wood for a more rustic appearance. This would work fine for a camping cabin, and might add to the experience. I have seen wide roughsawn used horizontally like clapboards, looks great on a cabin
In Kentucky coal country a lot of houses were made without studs, just vertical planks. Some were covered with "brick siding" which was just an asphalt product that poorly simulated bricks, but did make the siding waterproof. Less fortunate people just had battens to cover the cracks. Needless to say they were uncomfortable most any time of the year, and were not too vermin resistant. My dad said that they would find snow on their beds in the winter sometimes. He stuffed wet newspaper into the cracks, while mom's family put up layers of wallpaper to help keep the drafts down. Both Mom and Dad grew up with coal burning fireplaces for heat, and no electricity. Hard to believe that in the 1950's people still had to live like that.
I have a book called "Adirondack Style" by Ann Stillman O'Leary, ISBN 0-609-60361-2. You would really like it. Loads of great camp pictures. These were not budget cabins, oh no.
gsh,
don't think that would be the optimum way of building but it would probably be fine, most victorians here in san francisco were constructed that way and they are still standing after all this time ( and earth moving ) , most on dry stacked brick foundations.
james
frame with 2x4's. You cans also brace with 1/2" Plywood in corners only.
This will work, be quicker and less expensive. They built houses this way all the time before oxboard became popular. In a wind tunnel you may need the shear factor, any where else...........this is the way to go.
Cheaper yet would be to frame your walls on the deck and cover with t-111, brace/siding all at once......trim it out real nice with cedar 1x4's.............half the houses in Anchorage AK are built that way
You didn't say where weather wise you are but assuming it is a summer only cabin . You would not need the insulating factor of foam board sheathing( My first thought )
So with that said let in steel or 1x4 would give you that rack resistance your after. tar paper or wrap would help with the joints if they opened ( in T1-11 ) Or with wind driven ( in a clapbourd)
Did Habitate for Humanity in New Orleans and San fransico and saw houses in both cities where the sided right on top of the studs. Good luck Mike
budget? How large and is it one building?
For a seasonal cabin felt's cheaper if you're concerned over springing the bucks for the 7/16 osb.
work slow, work free, live long....huh?
When I say budget I mean planning for cost, not making it cheap. I have already decided to build the camp to fit the surrondings, so style choices will add to my costs. Although seasonal, it will be used more in the winter for snowmobiling so insulation is a big factor. The camp will probably be finished over a couple of years as I can afford to do it out of pocket so I didn't want to sheet, wrap and leave exposed to the elements until I could afford to side it. That was my thinking to replace the sheeting with the finished siding, put wood on once and be done with it. Phase one is to erect and close in; wiring, insulating, etc. will come as the dollars do.
My plan is for a 28x32, story and 1/2 saltbox with dormers and a porch. I haven't started working numbers seriously yet, but I'm hoping to close in for 12-15K range. Foundation will be piers. I am going to compare 2x6 walls with 2x4 and insulation board, but I'm thinking that will front end me more cost. I still have water and sewer to contend with.
Thanks for all the input, I want to bat around any and all ideas I can before I start swinging a hammer (or shooting the gun should I say).
Maybe a good application for T-111, a textured 4X8 panel with grooves 4" or 8" on center. Serves as both sheathing and siding. We put up a 20 X24 cabin (floor platform on piers done the previous two weekends) in one weekend using pre-stained T-111 on studs, with 2X6 rafters and pole-barn steel roofing. Dried in with some windows and doors installed. Cut in remaining windows, insulated etc out of cash flow and available time over the next few months.
Is the interior going to be unfinished (at least for awhile)? If so you're leaving the Tyvek exposed to damage from "occupants" (both two and four legged), so you may want to think about that point. (But using Tyvek is a good idea on a building that's apt to be "loosely" constructed like this one -- will greatly improve wintertime comfort.)
Re bracing, you should probably consider the location in terms of wind. If the place isn't real well sheltered from the wind then it would probably be a good idea to double-up on the bracing.
Another option, a little more work, is to install the siding diagonally. Used to be, when plank sheathing was used, it was often installed diagonally both for strength and to avoid interference with the final siding.
I agree with ??? that you can side the walls laying down. Goes a lot faster, but you of course have to pay attention to the corner details. You can even construct the walls laying on top of each other, then raise them all at once, if you plan it a bit.