Greetings all,
Have a 6’ glass door on gable end of home. Want to add a lid overhead, 4’ deep, simple gable. It will be barrel vaulted, so it will weigh a little more than conventional, guessing maybe 300-400 pounds after the shingles are on.
Two story, 2†x 6†studwall, some snow in central PA.
I’d like to support the outside of the entry roof with diagonal support framing – anchored to the triple header studs at each side of door – but am wondering about the advisability, weight-wise.
This as opposed to posts.
Unaware of any rule of thumb on this issue…never seen it discussed. Any thoughts?
TIA,
Todd
Replies
keep the roof steep, and the braces as close to 45* as you can, you oughtta be ok...tie in well to the wall as well up top.
The may not be a real good framing job behind, being a gable. Have ya looked or know what's in the wall for sure?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Shere,
Thanks for the input.
The framing is actually exposed inside on the first level so I know what's there. Just wasn't sure of the weight considerations being applied horizontally.
Thanks,
Todd
Hi,
We have something like this on our house. Ours is above a door on the east side, below the main roof (hip style), which has eaves about 14 ft above grade; no gutters. The door's shelter is about 2 ft deep and the width extends about 10 inches to either side of the door. I've lived with it for 2 years now, and have had enough. I plan on replacing it this fall.
From my experience with the current design, I can offer a few suggestions:
1) flash well the joint of the door's shelter to the exterior wall/siding. Ours has no visible flashing and if there was any caulking it's long gone. Water leaks down between the 'shelter' and the siding.
2) be as generous with the door shelter's size as you can be, within the limitations of your structural constraints and aesthetics. Ours is too small to provide shelter to anyone from rain or snow. When I replace it, I'm thinking of a roof about 4 feet deep and extending about 3 feet beyond either side of the door.
3) consider where the rain will discharge from your door shelter roof, and make provision for it not falling on people coming to the door. This will probably mean including gutters. If its a peaked roof, you may be able to get away without gutters if its wide enough. However, consider that the runoff may splash up onto your callers.
4) ours was supported by two steel shelving angles/triangles screwed into the 2x6 framing. Adequate for the loads it's seen (New Brunswick snow and rain; I've braved standing on it). But, if I hang from the roof, it begins to pull away from the wall. I support the recommendation to support with braces at 45 degree angle to wall.
John
John, good tips. Sidewalks are poured right next to the structure but I am planning to rip em our, and move them outside of a landscapped area abutting the house. So I don't think drenching visitors will happen, though on second thought that might not be a bad idea for some folks who've stopped by.
Going to try posting a sketch in a separate post if you wanna comment further.
Todd
Geez, not sure if the upload of the little sketch worked or not. Wouldn't let me browse, even with the "all files" option mentioned on the prompt. If not, I'll try again.
In looking at this again, my SO want the depth to be more like 3' instead of the 4' I originally stated. I am more comfortable with the angled supports instead of posts now that the size has been officially reduced. But if anyone has comments fire away.
Also, if you know of reference in dealing with situations like this, I'd like to read em...never seen anything on this topic.
Todd
Worked well enough. Here's a quick & dirty of my cantilever idea:
I just wanted to share (and to see how the round cut barrel vault 'joists' looked <g>)Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Cool illustration, cool idea. A little too late for me though.
Thanks,
Todd
Can you get in behind the gable? Might be much easier to build a cantilever out to support the structure. Which, also, gives you agood reason to flash this in correctly. Along with a few more oppertunities for fun/craft/whimsy if you are keen on it.
I've seen too many gables built as a conventional wall with a triangular "bit" spiked on top. Adding weight right at that "hinge" could get exciting. Some of the traditional built gables I've seen did not have much to brace back to, diagonally (and you would want to not crowd the door, or storm/screen door, the lights, etc. )
Capn:
I don't think a cantilever will work but no problem with the flashing...just 30# felt on the exterior walls now. (Sidewall shingles/beveled siding won't happen till next spring, I'm afraid.)
Not sure I originally communicated clearly. I'll post a sketch tomorrow, hope you can check it out and take a minute to reply again after you see something.
Todd