Am trying to work out some details for some “shelving cubes” for a non-profit client. It’s for a conference room, and the design calls for 3 “cubes” that can be used for storage. Was thinking about using 1″ melamine or MDO plywood, but since these are wall-mounted I’m concerned about support. The 2 smaller ones will be for lighter stuff, but the larger one will be 3′-0″ wide and will have a fair-sized T.V. sitting on it, with a VCR/DVD player inside. I’m not so concerned about them staying to the wall (the walls will have additional blocking to support them), but I’m more concerned about the joints. Will 1″ be enough for screws to hold on to? Would a dado joint keep them more square than a miter joint? And since everything is exposed, can I expect smooth cuts on the edges (no chips, rips, etc.)? They’ll be painted so using putty and sanding them smooth will be o.k., but I don’t want to create more work than necessary. You see these things on the HGTV shows all the time (at least my wife does), but I can’t imagine they can hold that much. Any ideas/comments/criticisms much appreciated (as always).
Edited 6/30/2005 4:40 pm ET by draftguy
Edited 6/30/2005 4:41 pm ET by draftguy
Replies
Greetings draft,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.
Perhaps it will catch someones attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
Many thanks, razz. Will try a second time.
Your TV is sitting on the top...right. And that is where most of your weight will be. I think as far as the TV goes you will be fine, as the wieght of the TV will do nothing to pull any joints apart. As far as the rest of the weight goes dvd/vcr shouldn't be too heay but it's always better to be on the safe side. Your choice of 1" stock is good MDO is stonger choice and the point of melemine is not having to paint it. But you are painting it, so go with the MDO.
as far as the joints go I have some opinions but not the experience with box/cabinet work to back it up. I'll let someone with better knowledge address that area. If you don't get any further responses I will tell you what I think and you can take it for what it's worth.
good luck
How "cube" are these cubes? Five sides, or four sides and a hangin rail or two, or some combination?
A five-sided box of 1" melamine-faced or MDO ought to be plenty strong for hanging--a full-thickness back giving plenty of "meat."
Makes for a bit of tough sledding for power & antenna/catv cords, though. So, maybe it's more of a 4 or 6" wide hanging rail, instead--that ought to be strong enough, too--it's just going to "want" some stout fixing to the cube's sides.
Now, since it's all paint grade, and pretty solid material, I'd be very inclined to using a finger joint for top, bottom, & sides. I'd likely use a pretty big "finger" (2-3x thickness) to leave room for a dowel or screw for a real belt & suspenders approach. But, that's me, over-engineering millwork for other people's tv's and the like.
Oh, if you are to use a solid back, and you want to use standard desk grommets, get a hole saw to match your grommet--it's much simpler than the other way around.
If it is hanging on a wall, how does one route any cables out the back? The only way I see that is if the junction box is right behind the box, in which case cut out for the box.
The only way I see that is if the junction box is right behind the box, in which case cut out for the box.
Which is fine if the cube sit "on" an outlet. Even better if the vcr cables, catv cable, etc., all terminate in a box on the wall behind the cube, too. Then, it's get an extension ring, and be happy (after cuting that hole through the back to match--oh joy, sawdust in the conference room <g>).
They make very nice grommets with spring covers that will handle a number of wires or combinations of wires. Most of those are paintable, too (though picking one "close" to the final color helps). A person just does not want to have a grommet that's 1/8" bigger than the hole saw one has (or is in stock at the nearby big box).
I'd prefer to have a top & bottom nailer for simplicity--a simple spacer on the nailer (and a routed discrete slot in t & b) would make for simpler living with the cube later.
But, that's me and my preferences--others differ.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
How "cube" are these cubes? Five sides, or four sides and a hangin rail or two, or some combination?Will be 5 sides, with the rear wall actually "pushed in" 1 1/2 inches to allow for discrete hanging in the back. The support will be a long piece of 1 x 4 screwed to a similar length of 1 x 3, all screwed to the wall. A similar combination will go to the back of the shelving unit, only upside down (so the 1" lip between the pieces will allow them to slip into place). Each unit will have a couple of these so they can be lifted in and out without too much difficulty (hopefully). Additional blocking is called out for the walls (2 existing locations, 1 new wall) for the screws to bite into. The biggest "cube" will have a couple of grommets for cords, etc.. In all, the "cubes" are supposed to look like they're "floating" . . . no visible attachments, simple lines, razor-thin look. Now you know why I'm concerned. Thanks to everyone for alleviating some fears, and raising some new ones. Am always interested in additional feedback.
Rabbeted, screwed & glued should be plenty strong (quick & cheap, too...I assume this isn't the Ford Foundation we're talking about here...LOL)
But a 3' by deep enough for a tube type TV, with a TV top or bottom, that shelf's gonna bow, even at 1" stock....you need a face frame or a torsion box.....IMHO
"But a 3' by deep enough for a tube type TV, with a TV top or bottom, that shelf's gonna bow, even at 1" stock....you need a face frame or a torsion box.....IMHO"
Do you really think? when we think about a shelf that is bowed because it is overloaded (and we've all seen 'em) it is because of the weight of the individual items on the shelf. Picture a shelf that is lined with bricks; the shelf will be bowed with the bricks in the center creating the greatest defleftion. The bricks on the ends where the support is will be unmoved. If you now put something that spans from support to support but weighs the same as the combined weight of all the bricks, the single object will in itself act as beam.
If draftguy makes his box so that the tv will receive support from both of the side panels, the sides will act the same as jack studs in a header situation. even if the box had no top with the support from the sides the tv will stay, as the tv will itself not bow.
anyway....just something to think about.
True enough, but I doubt that a TV on that shelf won't make it sag....in fact, the thing will probably bow out of pure wooden cussedness if it doesn't have some kind of frame or support...
"in fact, the thing will probably bow out of pure wooden cussedness "
lol...you're probably right, there. But I guess there's only one way to find out. He could always build it without a frame and easliy add a face frame later if it ever bowed. adding the frame will definately keep it from any self bowing tendancies.