Shingle replacement on wood storage shed
user-566052
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I have a custom built wood storage shed I made about 20 years ago, roofed with cedar shingles. I installed them onto #15 felt over 3/4″ sheathing. [I know this is not the proper way]. Despite this the shingles held up till this year, but thery are now starting to disintegrate and I’m getting minor leaks inside.
I’m about to pull them off and use regular shingles. I don’t know yet if the sheathing is damaged. Assuming it isn’t, do I have to replace the felt? or can I just add another layer of #15 on top of it.
I never installed drip-edge, is it worth spending the money on that, considering I have no eavestrough? Is there some value in putting on the roof edge only to protect the sheathing edge?
Replies
Felt is cheap, why use the old stuff at all.
Rip it off, inspect/repair the sheathing and start fresh. I would use 30# anyway.
If your shingles are in bad shape then it may be in your best interest to take the old felt off so that you can get a good look at the roof deck. That said, yes you can felt over the old stuf, but it just doesnt make much sense to not start from scratch if your into it that far.
30lb felt will not add a single day to you roof life so stick with 15lb., install them properly and well see you in another 20 yrs.
In my opinion (code requirement in these parts now) drip edge is a must on roofs, if nothing else, it will give your shed a cleaner roof detail than not having it.
You don't necessarily need the drip edge, but you do need a starter strip -- either rolled roofing or shingles turned backwards. The drip edge mainly protects the shingle edge from ladder damage, and keeps water from running behind the fascia (which I doubt you have) or the gutter (which you don't have).
Why do you believe the OP's building doesn't have facias or guttering?
Thanks, starter strip was planned. And yes. no fascia, no gutters.
The drip edge also protects the edge of the plywood decking.
pvc alternative
Since 3/4" ply was used as roof sheathing one could alternatively cut in a piece of, say, 1x4 pvc at the eaves to protect against future rot from run off water via surface tension. This would avoid the look of a eave drip cap hanging way past the sheathing thickness.
Drip edge is pretty cheap. Why wouldn't you just use it?
gave you one....here's another
I just gave you one (asthetic) reason. I also stated that is was an alternative to solving a moisture problem. Another reason you may want to use PVC? Maybe you just happen to have some in stock. I have a ton of it (that's already been paid for) while not stocking any drip edge.
Go for it.
What if I screwed some 2x2 under the edge of the plywood to make it "thicker" and then put a 1x4 or1x6 cedar [which I have piles in stock] fascia on it. The shed has shlplap cedar [aged] walls.
what' the gain?
user-566052 wrote:
What if I screwed some 2x2 under the edge of the plywood to make it "thicker"....
You could. But what do you think you'll gain by doing this? Why can't you just fasten your fascia (if you want one) onto the truss or rafter tails?
oops duplicate
oops duplicate
If you do as you're supposed to do and extend the shingles about 3/4" beyond the edge of the sheathing there's no need to "protect" the edge of the sheathing (assuming it's appropriately painted).
The reasons for having drip edging in your circumstances would be 1) appearance, and 2) to protect the shingle edge from ladders. You need to decide how important those are to you. And note that adding a 2x2 strip under the sheathing edge would not protect the edge of the shingles from ladders.
side tracked with scaffold problem
This afterrnoon - I started setting up and what I see is not good - I might regret doing this myself. I had been loking foward to doing it.
I'm setting up scafolding - because of changes to adjacent structures and landscaping, it's not going too be easy to set up ladders the same way as when I originally built and shingled.
I have some scafold frames I bought years ago when doing some long term renovation. They have not been dropped, or had a vehicle drive over them. I have two big frames about 6' high and two smaller about 4'. At one end the small frame slides on top of the pins and fits perfectly. The other end does not, the lower frame is 1/4" wider than the upper. I cannot see any reason why, no bends, welds look solid. How can a steel scaffold get1/2" wider? Looks like the only solution is to angle grind part of the pin off, being fully aware I will lose some structural integrity.
I pulled off some of the wood shingles, a disgusting mess of bugs and worms under them so I'm not optimistic about the sheathing being in good shape. However the covered parts of shingles look solid and new.
blind leading the blind
user-566052 wrote:
How can a steel scaffold get1/2" wider?
Maybe you didn't have enough drip edge covering it....or paint.
(No subject)