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Discussion Forum

shingles- how long will it take?

nkhandyman | Posted in General Discussion on July 1, 2005 10:18am

Hi,

Can anyone offer a time estimate on how long it would take one person to remove old shingles, replace 2 windows (RO for windows would most likely have to be reframed), add Tyvek. Finish by shingleing with white cedar 5″ exp.

Single floor hse; one wall is 24′ by 8′ with a 4″pitch peak area

Time guess is for completing 1 wall by someone who is handy but has not done shingles.

Thanks all

Reply

Replies

  1. DanH | Jul 01, 2005 10:58pm | #1

    Can't give you an estimate, but you can probably cut the time 30% if you have some decent scaffolding, vs using ladders.

    The windows, especially, would benefit from a second person.

  2. DanH | Jul 01, 2005 11:04pm | #2

    (And, of course, someone's going to tell you you can't put cedar over Tyvek.)

    1. seeyou | Jul 01, 2005 11:26pm | #3

      You can't put cedar over Tyvek.................................................OOPS, I did it again.............................

  3. MikeSmith | Jul 02, 2005 01:31am | #4

    paul.. why do ou want to know ?

    Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
    1. nkhandyman | Jul 02, 2005 01:48am | #5

      I normally do small jobs for folks but one of my customers asked if I would be interested. I told her honestly that I could not give her an estimate because I really did not know how long it would take me. With my business, I always charge by the hour so I guess it would take me at least a week.
      Again I am not shingle savy so why can't cedar be put over tyvek? Then rosin paper or felt?

  4. MikeSmith | Jul 02, 2005 02:08am | #6

    paul..... i'd figure one day to reframe and install the 2 windows.. one day to trim them inside

    for the 2 square , strip  & install, i'd figure  4 days ..

     so... one guy working by himself  ... windows & WC shingles   ....6 days...

    but if you keep accurate records you can soon develop your own numbers

    Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
    1. nkhandyman | Jul 02, 2005 02:23am | #8

      Thanks for you input Mike.
      Paul

    2. User avater
      EricPaulson | Jul 02, 2005 02:32am | #9

      Mike's advice is right on the money; for some one with some experience...........

      Don't forget to include your time to acquire the materials, clean up, whatcha gonna do with the debris, and what ever underlayment you do finally decide to use under those shingles..............

      Maybe I forgot a few things................

      If I were you, I'd be thinking 10 days; two working weeks.

      You're gonna lose a day here or there to the weather............

      Good luck,

      EricI Love A Hand That Meets My Own,

      With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.

      [email protected]

  5. WillGeorge | Jul 02, 2005 02:21am | #7

    If I was doing the job about a month!

  6. User avater
    NickNukeEm | Jul 02, 2005 05:04am | #10

    Other things to consider:

    Are the corners woven, or are cornerboards used?  (Woven takes longer.)

    Two square of old shingles take up more than a few contractor bags.  Consider getting a small dumpster, the smallest I've used was 6 yards.  Seven squares of rotting cedar shingles took it to the top.

    Remember to factor in tarps, time to set up/clean up and break down.  The echo someone previous, ladders will work (I've used ladders and ladder jacks for a similar wall, but it is a pain and time consuming) but if the terrain will allow, consider scaffolding; doesn't have to elaborate for a single story.

    Up here, WRC comes in 1/2 and 1 square boxes, but that's depending on exposure.  I usually overestimate the need as the exposures are usually smaller than the box covers.

    If you're doing this alone, figure out a way to stand your shingles up in a row, then nail them off.  You can snap a level line and screw a board at the line, or there are jigs that can be made that accomplishes the same thing.  The results look considerably better than trying to lay the butt to the line. (Ensure you get R&R shingles, resawn and rebutted.  The butts are square - mostly - and perpendicular with the sides, which makes installation easier and more profession.)

    Nailing or stapling is a matter of prefernce.  I use a siding gun with SS ring shanks, it's faster, but the nails aren't cheap.

    Be sure to kick out the bottom course with an undercourse. 

    Is there a rake/gable end?  If so, do you need to remove rake boards, or do the shingles butt against the rake?  (Not real likely, most often the rake board is applied after the shingles are installed, although there was a thread recently where a guy swears by butting the shingles against the trim instead of applying it over the shingles.)

    If possible, remove the shingles from around the corners, apply peel/stick flashing, then reshingle.  This is assuming the corners are woven.  Not a bad idea for corner boards, either.

    Take your time and have fun.  Bring a sharp block plane and utility knife for the corners.

    Good luck.

     

    I never met a tool I didn't like!

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