I am building a deck and have to shingle 7 tapered posts. I made the posts out of 3/4″ treated plywood making a square and then shimmed out the bottom and middle to create a flare. Since I have to do 7 of them I was planning on making a jig for cutting the shingles uniform to the correct taper. Now, I saw something about this in an old fine homebuilding but cant get my hands on it now. Anyone recall this issue or have an idea to speed up the shingling?
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If you have a table saw, just use a piece of plywood (3/8" is ideal) against your miter guide. Run a 2x2 cleat across the bottom, then make a cut in the plywood at the approximate angle. (The cleat holds the pieces together and serves as a the new fence for the miter guide.) Set a shingle on the plywood (bottom against the cleat) and repeat the cut.
You can adjust the miter guide angle by a few degrees, widening the cut in the plywood, without needing to make a new jig or adjust the old one. If you need to make a number of repeat cuts, a nail tacked into the plywood will help position the shingles the same, or you can devise something more elaborate.
Another way to do it is to build a sliding table (similar to the above) that runs against the rip fence or in the miter guide slots. Use a wedge of the appropriate angle at the bottom of the sliding table to set the taper.
Finally, you can build a sliding table with an adjustable bottom fence, so you can adjust the taper.
I set my first shingle in the middle with an appropriate offset to the ones below.
Then hold a shingle up next to it scribe the tapered line on the back.
Lay it on a flat surface and cut with a box knife away from the grain direction.(so your blade doesnt end up following the grain direction, just your scribe)
Use a brand new blade and 2 quick slices along a straight edge gets you a very nice cut.
You can touch up if needed with a block plane.
Next topic- how to resize pictures. LOL
Edited 7/6/2007 2:48 pm ET by PASSIN
> Next topic- how to resize pictures. For that you need a radial arm saw.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
nice work btw ...
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
and try this for the pics ...
http://www.irfanview.com/
it's what all the cool kids are using these days.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
You are wasting time with a jig and a TS. Every single shingle will vary anyway and need to be fitted. The right way to shingle woven corners is with a knife and a block plane in place. Works the same way regardless of whether there is a taper, a skirt, or regular corner
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Piffen,
i haven't tried it on my present cedar shingling project because i am weaving into existing corners--matching what's already there--------
but i think somebody mentioned here on breaktime that on NEW work----- he uses a laminate router.
i don't think i can try that trick on this project because the NEXT course on the old wall would interfere with the router???????
stephen
BTW---really, REALLY enjoying the hand nailing----and the block plane-----and the clean work( though tearing the old ones off was pretty dirty---but easy)
Your right about the jig. I did narrow it down to 5-8 degree angles and am cutting them on my slide miter saw. It's working great but very time consuming since every post is only 2 shingles wide and they both have to be cut. I have 2 down and 5 to go. In this 100 degree day today I hope to get one more done. Thanks.
The right way to shingle woven corners is with a knife and a block plane in place.
Are you saying you do the fine adjusting after the shingle is nailed on?
What sort of block plane do you use, by the way?
Up 'til now, I've just scribed and then cut with a small circular saw; looks like there's a much different way to go about it.
I nail the shingle in place, then take my utility knife and cut into the but with the full blade about 1/8" or so off the opposite corner piece, standing where I can firmly and safely haul the blade through the shingle, and at the same time see the tip of the blade to be able to guide it not too close to the other piece. to start, for practice, make your cut an inch away, then half an inch, then closer, so you don't let it go the wrong way, but I have done it enough, I can just cut the shingle almost where I want it finished. Then I put the knife back in pouch and whip out the block lane. guide the toe on the opposite shingle and shave the excess until there is a perfect fit in place. It is a Stanley block plane - I don't know the number - I have three. One is reserved for finer work interior.One other thing that helps is to use a shingle with the grain running about the right direction too
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I've always used a low angle stanley block plane, that I generally have in my belt. We'll see what Piffin says.
Yeah, it is a low angle plane
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Piffin and bri: thanks for the help. After getting over the learning curve, it sounds like using the plane could be an easier/better approach than the one I've been using.
On the subject: when weaving corners, do you use any adhesives or extra nails to hold the corner shingle in place extra well?
I use a three penny fine pot nail.
mike Smith swears this is the worst thing you can do because it can cause the thing to split right there, but it is the way i learned and it is done here. I remember replacing shingles 90 YO on a place here and it was done that way. I'd say that in 90 years, 80% were still hanging fine except where worn so thin by wind and rain erosion, there wasn't much left anyways. A few might split, but with nothing holding, a few will warp up and away too, so six of one and half a dozen the other way.
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Are you talking about putting the 3d nail into the edge grain of the adjacent shingle?
Edited 7/9/2007 1:00 pm ET by Ragnar17
yes - stitching that corner lap together with an exposed nail.I don't use glue. Hate the thought of getting it on my block plane
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
yes - stitching that corner lap together with an exposed nail.
Do you typically use green or dried shingles? When edge nailing green shingles, I haven't had any problems to speak of concerning splits, but I imagine kiln-dried ones might be more vulnerable.
I've never laid a green shingle in my life.
three penny fine is a pretty thin nail size
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adjustable sliding table and use the drops on the appossing sides then you only need to cut fillers and the butts will be broken up more....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
sounds good but the drops are tapered the wrong way. If I flip them then the thick side would be up. Yesterday I cut a bunch with the angle then trimmed the straight side to fit. Any way you look at it I think it will just take me some time. The posts are only 11" square. Thanks for the input.
was thinking in terms of ruff sawn...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!