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Right. wet it or steam it in a piece of 2″ ABS with an electric kettle or wrap it in rags and pour boiling water on it for an hour. If you do steam or boil or soak, select the moulding with the straightest possible grain oriented vertically.
There’s a moulding company here (Nova Scotia) selling flexible plastic mouldings that match the profiles of their own products. The stuff is expensive, but so is running around steaming little bits of wood, breaking half of them anyway when you try to install them.
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Right. wet it or steam it in a piece of 2" ABS with an electric kettle or wrap it in rags and pour boiling water on it for an hour. If you do steam or boil or soak, select the moulding with the straightest possible grain oriented vertically.
There's a moulding company here (Nova Scotia) selling flexible plastic mouldings that match the profiles of their own products. The stuff is expensive, but so is running around steaming little bits of wood, breaking half of them anyway when you try to install them.
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DML,
Any kin to the DML company?
Most good lumber yards sell flex mould. Shoe mould is a common profile. If you can't find it, I can refer you to a lumber yard here in Dallas that can ship it to you. This stuff bends around almost any radius and paints up great. It also comes in a stainable "grained" series.
Ed. Williams
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Flex moldings are definately the way to go for a painted surface, a few things to watch for though. Make sure that your painter is aware you have used these type of mouldings, some require a certain type of sealer/primer or will degrade if the wrong type of paint is used. Also, most flex-mouldings don't glue with normal wood glue, so use PV glues in the joints or a proprietary glue if the manufacture recommends one. Lastly, rubbery flex mouldings tend to dimple when you nail them, so do not press any harder than necessary when nailing otherwise you will wish you owned stock in DAP Spackle.
If for some reason you can not get flex mouldings, you can always laminate up the blanks and rout out whatever detail is required. Time consuming as hell, but works even with custom mouldings.
Good Luck
...I may not be good, but hey, I am consistent...
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To lay shoe mould around a curved wall, I know the shoe has to be kerfed on the inside (it's an outer circle), but is how often and how deep? I remember hearing years ago that there was a way to determine how often to kerf, and that if done right, the kerfs closed themselves up. This shoe will be painted, so woodfiller can cover some of the gaps, but I'd really appreciate any advice on cutting this shoe. Thanks.
*DML,
View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle
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Joe F is on tract with the kibosh on kerfing. I've been there and tried that. Have had luck glue laminating molding with tight radius. Generally you need to be able to remill molding after glue-up. For a shoe molding that should be straight forward enough.
So paint or stain grade?
joe d