We’re substantially renovating our house and turning it into a Southwest Contemporary style (literally from a red barn). We’re going with clean, simple trim throughout, and are using a 3/4 quarter-round molding that I will mill to match our Brazilian Cherry engineered floor. All the corners in the house are rounded with bullnoses, and there are a few external corners, and a couple of pony walls, that I need to continue the molding around…This brings up the interesting challenge of how do I finish the trim around the bullnose corners? If I just use a miter, there will be a gap from the arc of the bullnose. I was thinking about taking a sold piece of wood, cutting out the inside and rounding the outside, and making it like an end-cap that would hug the wall, but I’m wondering if there are any other techniques I can use.
BTW, in case anybody is interested, we are tracking the progress on our website: http://www.terryandcarla.com/remodel_main.htm
Replies
3-4 pcs to take you around the corner. Hit the tips with sandpaper and it'll look rouuuuund.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
They make bull nose terminations that transition the rounded bullnose to a square corner. They are about 6-8 inches long and can be cut to the desired length. They make for a much cleaner job than the chamfer/caulk method. I always use them at the floor and ceiling for base and crown. They look good, and make the finish carpentry that much easier.
m, I gave that some thought but figured maybe his board is done.
Another thought that with only 3/4'' qtr round, that termination would be up quite a bit. I don't know, what do you think?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I did a job like you are saying and thought it looked OK.
If he is using only base shoe and no base, there would certainly be alot of waste to the termination. But I can't honestly say I've seen walls with shoe and no baseboard. I've seen them with nothing at all which is wuite unique looking. But I'm sure there are many things I've never seen before. If thats the case, your method would look the best. Watch your fingers, and keep and eye out for the flying peices. they'll be small.
Watch your fingers, and keep and eye out for the flying peices. they'll be small.
Excellent! It didn't even come into my mind. I know it, but should do a better job explaining it in a post. Simple stuff like this is natural to those of us that do it every day, tho some do forget. Thanks.
And even tho the view is good, don't set up the cutting station in front of that slider.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
The only reason I thought of it is becasue last friday I was cutting returns on some prefinished Wood Mode rope moulding. The kind thats about 1/2" thick at its fattest by 3/4" wide. It's maple so it's super brittle too. I must have lost about 15 little wedge shaped returns before I finally found enough to finish it up. I was cutting out on a deck that over looks the bay at he Jersy shore, and i kept seeing the little peices flying into the water. Looking back, it's kind of funny.
I have dealt with this same issue of bullnosed corners and base in a different manner at times.
Less chance of the "finger biters" I cut blocks out of 4x4 stock , about 1/2" taller than the base is.
Then use the drill press and bore a hole verticly thru the center of the blocks using an 1 1/2" forstner bit.
After drilling I rip the block into 4 pcs. Makes a nice corner for the base to die into .
I have also added another facet to the block by ripping it again at 45 deg. removing what would be the outside 90 deg. corner, beveled the top back at 45 deg.
Used the same technique with 3" round balustrade pcs. once. If you can't find 4x4 stock , it works to make a small plywood box just large enough to fit 4 pieces of 2x2 stock into , then center the forstner bit on the four point intersection.
Edited 3/27/2007 8:03 pm by dovetail97128
Thats an excellent idea. Kinda like a plinth block for the corner. Then the shoe can go right around. If you plan ahead, you can make enough blocks in the shop before going to the job.
Edited 3/27/2007 9:21 pm ET by rnsykes
Exactly.
For awhile just after bullnosed corners came out and before they had the transition pieces for bullnose I was making them for every job.
Then somebody started making and selling a similiar product through the local LY.
It does allow for a lot of creativity in an otherwise bland and mundane area of trim.
Thank you all for the quick response - this is the first I've used the forums here, and I'm really impressed with the help. I found some of the terminations on line - that would have been a simpler solution before they finished tape and texture, but since we haven't painted yet, it still could work. I think I'll try 2 or 3 pieces around the corner first, and see how it looks.
Bullnose transition caps are great. They blend the quarter-round drywall corner to a sharp 90, right near the floor. It adds a little visual interest, and provides an easy way to do the baseboard. Here's a link to one brand, but there are others out there: http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/5471131#
Just make the cuts @ 22.5 degrees. If your pieces are very small, use a sacrificial piece in front, to prevent the piece you want taking wings.