Ready to design and build my own shop dust system. Just read Taunton Press’ book “Woodshop Dust Control”.
But what about vapor/air quality issues from painting and finishing wood?
How can I incorporate ventilation into my system?
Ready to design and build my own shop dust system. Just read Taunton Press’ book “Woodshop Dust Control”.
But what about vapor/air quality issues from painting and finishing wood?
How can I incorporate ventilation into my system?
The best tool for straight, splinter-free cuts is made even better without a cord.
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Replies
Spray booth with explosion proof fan dumps large volumes of air outside, usually replaced by infiltration. Size the fan for your needs.
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Yup, if yer drawing the smoke back from the woodstove, it's just about right..
We got germination!
Still working on the 'shrooms area.
I got the D45 here now..not pretty. LOL
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Do not add to the world's confusion, by speaking in unclear terms"
While a large vacuum system to grab the dust before it is released into the shop makes sense. Particularly for planers and similarly profligate generators of dust. But IMHO lot of time and money is wasted capturing dust. Expensive and troublesome filters and separators are installed.
The best systems I have seen, at least one serving a small commercial shop, have no real filtration. The sawdust is discharged into an out building or simply onto the ground downwind of the shop.
I'm down here in Florida so temper your adoption of my commentary to your area.
Sometimes I see people design in exhaust fans for areas with dust and/or flammable fumes. IMHO this is a mistake. The better approach is to rig the fans to force outside air INTO the space or building and allowing adequate open windows to allow timely exhaust.
The dust and fumes are forced out under pressure and the near constant breeze, about 2-3 mph, is also quite soothing on hot summer afternoons. A frame and accordioned window screen can be built to filter the air drawn In to keep insects out. A finer commercial filter can be substituted when finishing is under way to keep dust off the finish. The air exhausted through the windows needn't be filtered except for simple window screens to keep the bugs out when the fan/s are shut down.
The best setup for these were installed in such a manner that they could be easily removed and hosed off when they became partially clogged. The commercial shop I referenced has them where they can be easily removed and reinstalled inside-out in seconds. Compressed air, or a few whacks with a lath strip, and working from the inside then drops the sawdust.
IMHO you need to capture the dust at the source, before it has a chance to escape into the shop air. What you do with it then; i.e., whether to push it through a fancy filtration system, or just exhaust outside, is less important.
Certainly this is a requirement in any place under OSHA rules. This stuff can be angerous to your health; the ~1 micron particle size dust is real bad. See http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm
I've got an air cleaner that hangs from the ceiling that does a great job of removing dust from the air. You can get them with timers that run for an hour or so after you stop working and then shut down. A buddy just got the Jet and its even got a remote.
As far as staining/finishing, I don't do it inside my house cuz of the fumes. (I take stuff to an outbuilding and finish it.)