Replies

1. 
   CDN_Builder | Apr 05, 2003 12:18am | #1

   Cut them in place b4 you install the floor.

   Use a scarp piece of flooring as a guide , scribe with a fat pencil line (1/8") and cut the top edge of the line, reciprocating saw, hand saw....whatever you have

2. 
   CapnMac | Apr 05, 2003 12:55am | #2

   I agree with CDN Builder.  If money is tight, check out the "japanese,"  or pull saws.  There's a model that has an offset handle that is slick for flush cutting dowels or screw plugs.  Just set the saw on top of the flooring scrap and use it as a guide to cut the trim.  If it's too tight, shim with a peice of cardboard or the like.  Since the saw is flat, and the scrap is "right there," there's none of the fun of the sawsall-is-at-an-angle, or knuckle-banging with the coping or back saw that just-doesn't-quite-fit problems.

3. 
   wrick2003 | Apr 05, 2003 12:58am | #3

   what an excellent question!  there is a special power tool called a jamb saw which slides right around the casings and jamb.  

   you can also acquire a manual jambsaw which is a simple saw with an offset handle.  

   you can also use a biscuit cutter set on a plywood shim to cut the casings and jamb.

   or a plain old hand saw.

   rg

4. 
   CAGIV | Apr 05, 2003 12:59am | #4

   http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=843&gift=False&0=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D10000%26Tree%3D%2CDepartments&1=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D1040%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D0%2CSaws&2=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D2124%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D1%2CHandsaws&Gift=False&mscssid=72EBBEA9371C47AD9ADE4D214F18A462

   Wow Thats one hel of an address.  Anyway,

   Scroll down to D on the list, the offset reversable saw.  I have it, it works great, and the fact that you can change the handle around makes all the difference in the world.

   View ImageGo Jayhawks
1. 
   BillHartmann | Apr 05, 2003 06:14pm | #12

   Here are a couple of sites that will take the those long URL and give you a short one.

   http://makeashorterlink.com

   http://tinyurl.com/

   This is the same as your link. http://makeashorterlink.com/?G3AF12914

1. 
   CAGIV | Apr 05, 2003 06:54pm | #13

   Thank you, in my book marks now.View ImageGo Jayhawks

2. 
   Dreuxgrad | Apr 08, 2003 03:42pm | #17

   PS. I hope Roy comes to Chapel Hill, They need a great coach!

1. 
   CAGIV | Apr 08, 2003 03:50pm | #18

   Not what I want to hear this morning.View ImageGo Jayhawks

1. 
   Dreuxgrad | Apr 08, 2003 04:43pm | #19

   AMEN!

5. 
   NickNukeEm | Apr 05, 2003 06:02am | #5

   For the power tool freak, Bosch makes a flush cut power recipricating saw (~100 bucks) which works like a champ, and Fein's multimaster (~$150) with an optional saw blade (~$45) will also do the trick.  Both would be used with a scrap piece of flooring to achieve the correct height.

1. 
   CAGIV | Apr 05, 2003 06:08am | #6

   I've seen that Bosch saw and thought about it several times, but other then as a jamb saw is it useful for anything else?  Do you have one, and if you do what do you think?  I don't have to flush cut enough to justify the 100 bucks when my hand saw works fine.View ImageGo Jayhawks

1. 
   Piffin | Apr 05, 2003 06:26am | #7

   I've got one.

   There are a limited number of things I use it for but when i need to break it out, it is owrth it because it saves me a half hour's work in a couple of minutes.

   What I use it for most is trimming into existing casing or baseboard. Suppose i have to install a new door in a wall and don't want to remove the 8" base and cap all the way back. Or I am setting in a base cab where none was before. I can have the bnase board vertical cut made in no time, clean and neat with no damage to wall board or floor. It does take a trick to handleing it tho.

   It comes in a case with a table mount too for small mitre cutting so if I have to go in to install one or two pieces of trim, It will do the job.

   The blades are disposable tho and expensive at 8-10 bucks each..

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   CAGIV | Apr 05, 2003 06:46am | #8

   I saw the little miter attachment, but figured it wouldn't be much use. 

   Thanks, maybe I'll pick one up, I seem to be on a buying spree lately.View ImageGo Jayhawks

2. 
   KenHill3 | Apr 05, 2003 08:26am | #9

   Pif-

   I almost got one too but decided the amount of use would not be enuf. I'll just keep using my smooooooooth  running Sawzall and japanese saws for the situations like you describe. Finesse is THE word for using the Sawzall like this but dang, Piffin, don't you agree that it's the most versatile and usefull of all powertools?

   Ken Hill

1. 
   Piffin | Apr 05, 2003 05:32pm | #11

   I agree that the Red Sawzall of this latest generation is the smoothest cutting one in the breed. I'll have to disagree about the power though. My PC with the black handle will out cut it for brutal demo work day in and day out..

   Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   NickNukeEm | Apr 05, 2003 02:08pm | #10

   Ditto what Piffin said.  I got it for flush trim work in a closet where there is no elbow room for my handsaw. 

   It was a great excuse at the time to pick up another tool, and I'm sticking with it. (The saw and the excuse, both which will be used extensively in the future.  )

   I never met a tool I didn't like!

6. 
   RussellAssoc | Apr 05, 2003 09:04pm | #14

       As mentioned, jambsaw, used by almost all hardwood flooring contractors.  You probably can find one by calling several rental stores.

7. 
   Turtleneck | Apr 05, 2003 11:14pm | #15

   You can use your biscut joiner in a pinch for a few doors and trim. Set up a shim at the proper height and plunge away. It doesn't cut too deep but you can finish the cut with a dovetail saw, much cleaner than a Sawsall. If you don't have a biscut joiner I'd use a sharp 10pt handsaw on a 3/4" spacer and I'd probably be done before the Sawsall left the box.

    Turtleneck

   Its not a smile- its a cramp

1. 
   Dreuxgrad | Apr 08, 2003 03:38pm | #16

   Thanks for the rebound, but the jambs are short enough, have any ideas for the opposite without total replacement, or removal  and dropping them.  They are painted, split, colonial jambs and trim.

1. 
   goldhiller | Apr 08, 2003 05:57pm | #20

   Depends upon just how much too short they are as to what material should be used, but since they're painted I'd considering filling the void after the new floor is installed.

   Mask the floor in the immediate area first. Then choose an appropriate filler. For larger gaps, I use fiberglass reinforced auto body filler. If possible, I like to install some sub-surface mechanical anchors, like a couple of nails or screws, for the material to latch onto whether it's necessary or not. If the gap is small, getting them in there can be problematic. Sometimes you just can't get anything in there.

   I stuff the void over-full and then, usually using a six-inch knife, I hold the blade vertically so that it can ride the existing profiles as I swipe across the filler. With a bit of practice, you'll have no problem reproducing any and all existing profiles. Any pitting or voids left from the first application can be filled on a second pass. This can even be done with wood filler.

   Make up a bunch of cardboard mixing cards ahead of time, as well as having lots of mixing sticks on hand, and don't forget to clean up your tools immediately with lacquer thinner at the first sign that the material is setting or they'll also be some swearing involved in this project.

   A little sanding if necessary and it's time for paint. Done right and I think you'll be pleased with the end result. Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.

2. 
   migraine | Apr 09, 2003 01:38am | #21

   Instead of dropping the casing, put in plinth blocks.  maybe a splice on the face of the jam?

3. 
   Turtleneck | Apr 09, 2003 09:49am | #22

   I think the Goldhiller filler/ Migraine plinthblock combo would save alot of headaches Turtleneck

   Its not a smile- its a cramp