After visiting all my local home stores and plumbing suppy companies, I have been unable to find an in-stock 24″ vanity with an 18″ depth. They can all order it, but I need it quicker.
One cabinet supply had an 21″ depth vanity for $75 (originally $175). How hard would it be to remove three inches from this cabinet? I can see at least three cuts for the sides and bottom, probably on the table saw (w/sliding table) to make the depth 18″.
Has anyone done this?
The other, less appealing option is the $89 dollar vanity at HD. Not my first choice, but maybe less work..
Any thoughts?
Edited 5/31/2006 11:45 am ET by Corrib
Replies
I don't think cutting the cabinet down would be a big deal.
But what about the drawers?
Boss,
For once, I got lucky with the drawers. They don't extend the full 21" inches to the back of the cabinet.I suppose I might some new drawer slides though.
After viewing the offerings at HD, I think I'm going to try the table saw technique. I'm thinking I'll put masking table over the cabinet edge so the veneer doesn't chip.
Would it be easier to disassemble the cabinet or make the cuts with the carcass intact?
Use a straight edge and a skill saw with a good blade. Carbide tipped for nails and staples. Could use a jig saw or router to make the cut as well with less splintering. Score the cut line with a razor knife and clean up with belt sander.
Shouldn't be a problem with a slider. I'd use a good 60T blade and tape the kerf. If it's MDF/Melamine it could chip, but you could cover that with cove on the outside. You'd have to shorted the drawers and get some new glides. Probably have to go with 16" full extension.
I have done this before, and I agree with the post above - use a skill saw. It's too large for a table saw, and it will likely bind.
The bottom of the cabinet will support itself when you cut it, but the top will come free and maybe rack the cabinet. Install a new upper ledger board before cutting it, and it will work fine.
if U pick one with cheaper slides ...
as in .. the pressed metal white deals where the slide on the side/ bottom of the drawer has the wheel in the back ... they're real easy to chop.
take the front off the drawer part ... and the back off the cabinet part.
for a super custom cab rail mount ... cut it 3/4 or so long ... notch ... and bend the tab over and drill the mounting hole.
cutting cheap drawers is easy too ... I've cut plenty in rental rehabs bu running the drawer over the table saw ... right at the dovetail's ... make sure they're glued tight ... then rip them off with the back of the drawer nice and clean.
rip the sides to length ... leave the bottom long enough to fit the existing groove in the back of the back ... and glue/pin the back ... back on.
It's a straight butt joint glued and nailed ... but still has the looks of the dovetails.
when I do cut the sides ... I like to redado the sides and fit the old back on for an almost factory fit.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa