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Mary, I’m a homeowner, not a builder, but my husband and I have had a metal roof for years and loved it. We’re only replacing it now because we’re remodeling. Metal can be noisy in the rain if you’re right under it (we had a bedroom with no attic above) but personally I love the sound.
I would say if you go for it, just make sure you get a “standing seam” roof, nothing else. From what I know about how they work, it’s worth the extra money because there are no exposed perforations for water to get in through. I’m kicking myself now because we didn’t get that kind, which has caused major headaches.
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Mary, I'm a homeowner, not a builder, but my husband and I have had a metal roof for years and loved it. We're only replacing it now because we're remodeling. Metal can be noisy in the rain if you're right under it (we had a bedroom with no attic above) but personally I love the sound.
I would say if you go for it, just make sure you get a "standing seam" roof, nothing else. From what I know about how they work, it's worth the extra money because there are no exposed perforations for water to get in through. I'm kicking myself now because we didn't get that kind, which has caused major headaches.
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Mary... While I was living in Texas (these last 3 years) I was called upon to chase after and repair a number of roof leaks. Of all the metal roofs that I was involved with, I did not encounter a single one that didn't leak! the most common cause for these leaks that I found was screws backing out of the framing. (the screws holding the metal down) What we determined was that the expansion and contraction caused by your normal temperature variance from night to day was the cause of this. Another common leak was a hard rain splattering up under the overlap joints and running down the other side. Now when the roof is applied, they put a strip of what they call "sticky-tape" along that lap joint and it is supposed to seal the joints so this does not happen, unfortunately it obviously doesn't always work, I could go on and on about the myriad of debates I became enmeshed in with the installers regarding why this happened as often as it did, however the point is it happens, regardless of fault. Another area of failure I ran across often was roof penetrations, chimneys, plumbing stacks, etc. there just is not a good method that I have found for flashing these points that does not rely heavily upon caulk, which will eventually deteriorate. Now I'm certain that you will get responses from people here who have metal roofs and love them, have never had a problem, etc. to them I say "that's wonderful! I'm happy for you! Everybody deserves to have a nice home that they never have a problem with!" I'm just saying that in my experience metal roofs are a maintenance nightmare. I wouldn't have one if you gave it to me.... Of course, just remember, my opinion, like all of the others expressed in here is worth exactly as much as you paid for it....
*Mark,i I was called upon to chase after and repair a number of roof leaks.Well of course all the ones you've seen leaked (duh). Standing seam metal roofs, when installed properly do not and will not leak.
*I've put alot of metal on barns. They're great for that purpose but I woudn't want to live under one.Standing seam is used all the time on commercial buildings and holds up very well. At a much higher cost than regular old shingles.
*Many modern house designs have metal roofs and look great. It's not just for barns any more.
*Teddy.... O.K. I didn't word that very well. What I intended to say was that every house I was involved with that had a metal roof, had leaks. I was not in the employ of repairing roofs, I just happened to be the guy on the crew who seemed to be able to diagnose and fix leaks. Like I said before, I know that there are many homes out there with a metal roof on them that doesn't leak. I just haven't been in any of them.
*I guess any roof is going to leak if not properly installed. That, me thinks, is the real problem with metal roofs. Too often they are installed by those who are unqualified and pretty soon the homeowner is calling you (Mark) to find fix someone elses f-up. Metal roofs should be installed by qualified installers so you can get on with better things, like learning the rest of the words to that carpenter song.
*Mary,A standing seam roof is perfect for Arts and Crafts style. Installed properly, it will last many, many years. If you are over 30 years old, the roof will probably last your lifetime.Ed. Williams
*Ed.,Thanks for your reply. Are there any manufacturers that you would recommend we look at. I did a search and like with everything else, there are a number of different companies who manufacture. Also, I wonder if we need to investigate different contractors as we go along. Is the same guy that would install an asphalt roof, the same guy we would talk to about a metal roof. My construction manager is starting to look into this for us, but I want to stay on top of things and have some knowledge in my back pocket before we discuss. Thanks.Mary
*Ask your architect for recommendations as to a contractor. Here in south Texas the metal installers are specialists and the don't do shingles. The previous answer about sticky-tape is correct, it's now being installed on most jobs. There are a couple of options you need to consider: 1. single or double crimp -single works well, double is better. Each uses a different machine head, but the installer can rent them from the metal distributor. 2. width of the panels. 16" and 18" are the most common, anything is possible. The wider the panel, the more they are prone to show oil-canning. Depending on the size of the house, height of the roof, etc, one pattern may look better than the other. 16" is a good compromise. 3. height of the standing seam. You may need a taller seam with low-slope roofs. Get into a friendly discussion with your roofer and ask him to expalin all the options and assorted pros-cons, as well as the cost factors.
*Mary, consider two factors; roof pitch and metal gauge. I find a pitch around or steeper than 8/12 is best for metal. Secound, try useing a gauge of metal 29 or less (metal contractors like a lighter gauge - 33+, its easier to work). In my 25 years of remodeling and new construction a metal roof is preferred, second only to slate, as the longest lasting one can get-properly installed of course.
*Bill, I'm a little confused by your answer. On the guage, are you suggesting a lower number than 29? I hope so. Sure, the roofers prefer lighter guages/higher numbers bucause it's easier to work with, but the homeowner will get a better product with a heavier guage. Also, an 8/12 pitch will work well with metal, but we commonly do 6/12 with no problems (ie leaks). One thing Mary needs to be sure of, is that she's not penny wise and pound foolish. Roofs and foundations are two places not to cut corners.The latest issue of FHB just came today, and there's an article on metal roofing in California. I haven't read it fully, but by reading the picture captions it appears that they had the manufacturer pre-cut all the pieces before shipping. Down here the installer shows up on site with a roll of material and a machine to form the profile in continuous lengths, like gutters. Also, the type they show in the article isn't a true standing seam. It's more like a snap lock seam. Our roofers run an electric crimper up every seam and it folds and locks the pieces tightly together.
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Our builder and architect are recommending that we consider putting a metal roof on our new home. It is an "arts and crafts/prairie style" ranch. We opted initially to go with 40 year celotex instead of wood because of cost. They say that a metal roof will look outstanding and be worth the additional cost...also no maintenace issues (that we would have with wood). I've only seen metal roofs on barns and wonder how they work in a residental appliation. Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks.