Or do I need any?
Tile 30″ opening, door is 3/8″ thick, 29.5″ wide 2 hinge.
Hinges are CRL, cut outs are the mouse ear type. There is about 3/8″ slop up and down in the cutout.
Looks simple enough, drill tile for hinges & install without breaking glass.
So, what don’t I know that I will know after I’ve done a few dozen?
Joe H
Replies
each one is different ...
each manufacturer is different ...
so I just spend some time with the directions first.
one of the few times I'll actually read thru ... the whole way thru ... first.
then ... read and follow the steps as I go.
Never much of a problem that way ...
nice when ya get a coupla of the same kind/manufacturer.
more expensive brands are usually easier to install.
have a coupla tubes of high quality clear silicon handy and warm ... and cut the tips as small as possible to start with!
Best Tip ... is start with a pairly plumb and level shower/tub enclosure.
just did a nice Basco as the last task of the day last Fri. Went quick enough to skim coat the walls one more time before the holiday break. Spent lunch time with the directions ... things went smooth after that.
Do ya know what brand you get to play with?
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Jeff, no brand, just a big piece of glass with cutouts for the hinges.
Hinges are CRLaurence, 4 screws to wall. No instructions to speak of.
Thinking the screws with the hinges are kinda short to hold 100 pounds of glass forever, other than that I guess I'll just wing it.
Joe H
oh ... that kind.
I've installed a few of those too ... and have worked around glass guys that have installed many times more.
again ... the plumb/level of the opening is more critical now that there's no adjustable channel to help hide anything.
as far as hinge size ... I'd call and buy directly from a glass shop that does a regular business in custom shower doors.
Looks lika U already have the hinges ... so I'd just "up-size" the screws as big as I could ... predrill ... and hope for the best.
just screwing a heavy hinged thing to the wall ... can't be too difficult?
what about the stop on the other side ... and any form of bottom track? Just curious.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Jeff, the hinges came with it. I'm just gonna make a template with the hinges on the door and go from there.
I framed it, I tiled it, it's square & better than plumb.
There's no stop of any kind, it will swing in or out.
Watching isn't the same as paying attention unfortunately or I'd know how to do this. Like a lot of things, I've seen it done but didn't really watch closely or take note of anything in particular.
On the other hand, it's just a door. As what's his name the amateur builder said, there's no skill involved.
What could go wrong he said?
Joe H
Will it make the pretty "whoosh" sound when it's closed? hope your tolerances are tight.
As long as it doesn't make a crash sound I'll be happy.
Joe H
Check the opening for square before you start drilling. You may find that the wall slopes in or out and will, eg, cause the door to drag if installed a bit too low.
happy?
Dan, I built the shower, it's square.
The real ? is regarding the hinges & the slop in the door cutouts.
There are rubber gaskets that go between the hinge and door, and it feels tight when it's assembled.
? is, is it going to stay where I put it, or slowly sag over time? Can the slop be used to adjust door up/down and expect it to stay there?
I never looked closely at one of these things before, and now there are none to look at here.
Joe H
If it doesn't stay, take the thing apart and fill the adjustment slop area with silicone (or, better, urethane window caulk). Adjust it right, and the silicone will set and hold it pretty well.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Talked to a glass guy today who tells me the rubber gaskets will hold it in place.
Kinda like the urethane idea though, seems a little more secure than just clamped with rubber.
Joe H