Replies

1. 
   JeffBuck | May 09, 2005 07:17pm | #1

   describe "no access" ...

   is it tight to a concrete wall ... or just there's some nice drywall in the way?

    

   I like to get a big hunk of lumber back in there ... slathered in silicon ... to glue it first.

   Jeff

       

1. 
   AndrewG | May 09, 2005 07:45pm | #3

   Good Question, JeffBuck: "No access" in this case is 450 year old plaster & lath on both sides of all walls. I though of an improvement over my first idea. There's a dnager in shooting mortar into the cavity from above teh shower stall, and that is the assumption that it will drop to aurround the toggle bolts. This potential failing can be eliminated by squeezing the mortar in through the togglebolt holes with a mortar bag. True, this still won't transfer the forces back to the adjoining studs as the proper detail would, but it will place a 4"H x 16"W block of mortar pushing against the back of a lath and plaster wall which might be enuogh.

   Thanks

    

   Andrew Gil

   Architect/Builder

2. 
   BillHartmann | May 09, 2005 07:39pm | #2

   Here is an anchor just for this application.

   http://www.wingits.com/%5EWingIts/home/default.asp

   
   

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   Edited 5/9/2005 12:57 pm ET by Bill Hartmann

3. 
   DDay | May 09, 2005 07:59pm | #4

   Saw this on this old house, http://www.wingits.com/^WingIts/home/ 

   It is a similar to a toggle bolt but it has about 8 legs instead of just the two.  I think they will have something that is rated for fiberglass.

    

4. 
   Bowz | May 09, 2005 11:18pm | #5

   Andrew,

   Is there drywall above the fiberglass module? If you can locate a stud behind the drywall, then plumb down to where you need the bar, you can use a "Solid Mount".

   Available at http://www.grab-bar.com .

   To use the Solid mount, you drill through the fiberglass, and lag bolt a threaded piece to the stud. Then a mounting flange threads onto the part that is bolted to the stud.

   Bowz

5. 
   Joe | May 10, 2005 03:22am | #6

   I know this won't help in this case.  But, this is why in all my apartments, when I renovate a bathroom I spec 1/2" CDX plywood on all the walls under the plaster.  I can hang anything anywhere anytime.  No problem.

1. 
   AndrewG | May 10, 2005 04:07pm | #7

   Joe,

   I'm with you on that. I install 2x6 blocking continuously at counter height and towel bar height, but your solution has even more flexibility.

   A couple of people responded with links to "wingits.com". They make a fastener specifically for grab bars and grab bars tailor-made for heir fastener (of course). It looks like it will  work great, and trheir grab bars look like premium quality so I may be saved on this one.

   Thanks again,

    

   Andrew

6. 
   DanH | May 10, 2005 04:13pm | #8

   Wingits: http://www.wingits.com/

   I've used them several times, on both tile and fiberglass, and they've worked out well. The only "trick" is making sure that the place where you install them is clear of obstructions behind the wall.

   (Well, there is one more trick: Finding a dealer. Couldn't find one in Louisville, KY, eg.)

1. 
   AndrewG | May 10, 2005 04:47pm | #9

   Dan,

    

   Glad to hear that you had success with wingits. I've been through your problems even mounting towel bars, paper towel dispensers and toothbrush holders (the first anchor goes right in but he second one always ends up hitting a venty pipe, the back of a junciton box or somehting else!). I figured I'd have a problem finding a dealer, but I'm told they sell small quantities on-line. Besides, if the make high-quality grab bars modified to work with the fastener, I'm also counting on them includingthe fastener when I buy the grab bar.

   Thanks,

    

   Andrew

1. 
   DanH | May 10, 2005 11:43pm | #10

   Well, they're not going to include them for free.They know how much their stuff is worth (in terms of saved time/grief) and they charge accordingly. But it's good quality stuff.