how much slope is needed on the tile shower pan. the finish slope.
Do you glue the membrain down with anything.
Edited 11/21/2004 7:01 pm ET by BROWNBAGG
how much slope is needed on the tile shower pan. the finish slope.
Do you glue the membrain down with anything.
Learn more about the benefits and compliance details for the DOE's new water heater energy-efficiency standards.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Fine Homebuilding
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
© 2024 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start Your Free TrialStart your subscription today and save up to 70%
SubscribeGet complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
forgot picture
You need a solid floor first. On top of this a pre-slope is installed. pan liner is next and should be tested for leaks. bed for tiles goes on top of the pan. Aim for 1/4" per foot plus without getting tough to stand on. Ther is an article on this in Fine hombuilding. Many installs skip the preslope and any water getting past the floor tiles gets traped and rots the liner and floor. Got photos if you need them!
Just to add there are pre-made pans to fit an old tub opening. Kohler and Swanstone come to mind.
The Meehan articles are very good. Most of the details are in there, except for a few critical ones which you must figure out.
I recommend 1/4" per foot minimum for the slope, which is established before membrane installation. If you err, make sure it is in the direction of a steeper slope.
All articles I could find in reference to installing the mud base over the membrane (membrane does not get glued to base) did not make sense. I had to figure out my own depth at the edge of the drain. This is predetermined by the actual drain assembly. I used the idea that I wanted two threads of the drain, at a minimum, to screw into the housing. This will determine your mud base thickness. Work back from your desired finish surfaces. You will have to determine some of the measurements based on the thickness of your thinset between the tiles and the mud base. The thickness of the tiles and your style of grouting also plays a role.
I also recommend getting the Noble Co. sealant if you use their Chloraloy product for the membrane.
When I do this job again, I will put an even steeper slope at the edge of the shower pan. In the case of the 1" tiles that I used for the pan, I would slope the tiles at the edge of the pan at about 1/2" per foot as they blend into the wall. Nobody will be walking at this edge, meaning no slipping hazard. This is a more effective way to get the water back to the drain and not have it collect at the edge for the growth of mold.