i am about to put down a shower pan in my 3’6″ by 5’6″ space using techniques from FHB . the drain is centered in the 3’6″ dimension but a foot forward of being centered in the 5’6″ dimension. sholuld i make the slope height the same all the way around which would put the slope more than 1/4 in per foot where the drain is closer to the wall? if not, i’m afraid the tile will look unlevel at the floor .
thanks for your input
Replies
Level the first course. Do you have a 2" drain ?
Chuck S
yes i have a two inch drane. so. you mean keep it level all the way around the perimeter?
thanks
Yes. Level around the perimeter as Mongo said.live, work, build, ...better with wood
To answer your question.........yes. Make the screed level all around at the walls.
If you feel it is too steep than drop it a bit.
Three of your dimensions from the drain are equal being 21".
I would pack mud at 1 3/4" around the walls to 1 1/4" at the drain.
That will give you just a bit over 1/4" per ft on the 21" dimensions and somewhat under a 1/4" per ft on the long dimension, but I feel it will drain fine.
Will you be putting some type of waterproofing membrane over the mud bed?
waterproofer can go under the bed too, no?
Typically a vinyl liner under the mortar; at least here in the east.
If you don't put a membrane over the mud, water will find it's way in and eventually create a cesspool of horrible biological cooties.
Google Schluter Kerdi.
waterproofer can go under the bed too, no?
No.
Membrane goes over your sloped bed, NOT under.
Membrane has to seal to drain flange.
Whatever you are using, find the manufacture's site and find out the correct way to seal the drain to membrane.
Joe H
pre slope
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pre slope
?
Joe H
the liner is sandwiched 'tween layers of mud.
Layer one pitches the liner..thats yer preslope.
Top layer is what yer tile gets mudded to.
http://www.cliffordrenovations.com
Why do I keep...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7ZkQC0riwc
http://www.ramdass.org
Semon.
Joe H
Joe,
He is confused over terminology, let's not make it worse.
To try to clarify..........preslope on the sub floor or underlayment ot put some slope on your vinyl liner so that water seeping (leaking) through your mud bed will find it's way to the drains weep holes.
Mortar on top of the vinly liner.
membrane on top of the mortar to attempt to eliminate the seeping (leakage)
Or a few other ways.
Don't worry about unequal slopes on the floor. That's done all the time. Keeping the bottom course of wall tile at an equal elevation will give you the better looking shower. By doing that you already know you'll end up with differing slopes in the different sections of your floor. That's fine, but the goal is keeping all four slopes within code, which is between 1/4" and 1/2" rise per foot of run.
With your "long" drain-to-wall section of floor being 3'9" long, at 1/4" per foot you're looking at about 15/16ths of an inch of rise.
Your "short" drain-to-wall runs will be about 1' 9" long. The 15/16ths inch of rise over the 1' 9" of run comes out to a little over 1/2" rise per foot of run.
So in a perfect and code-compliant world, your slope exceeds the 1/2" rise maximum.
Now you can go with that, or you can hold yourself to the book. If you want to be book precise, then you can do the long run at 1/4" per foot and the three short runs at 1/2" per foot. Your bottom course of wall tile can still be level, and you can eat that theoretical 1/25th of an inch deviation up in your floor-to-wall grout line. That's the silly theoretical code following micrometer required book answer.
Which issue are you looking at?
It may help that we can follow along.
This is not a job I would recommend to an inexperienced person.
my concern was solely the slope from the drain that is uncentered in a rectangular (not square) space. the drain is 17 inches from the side walls, 17 inches from the front wall and 46 inches from the back wall. Based on these measurements, i need a height of .95 inches at the back wall to acheive a 1/4 per foot slope and .35 inches at the side and front for the same 1/4 per foot. if i go to a 1/2 inch per foot slope at the sides and front, that doubles the height to .70 inches, which is still about 1/4 lower than the back wall's top of the slope.
In accordance with FHB Sept 2001 , i am putting down in the following order - layer of thinset on the sub floor, mud, felt paper, waterproof membrane, backer board held 1 1/2 inches above the membrane, 2 1/2 inches of mud, then tile.
In accordance with FHB Sept 2001 , i am putting down in the following order - layer of thinset on the sub floor, mud, felt paper, waterproof membrane, backer board held 1 1/2 inches above the membrane, 2 1/2 inches of mud, then tile.
Sounds like you are good to go then.
I personall would Kerdi over the mud bas and up the walls 6-8" in addittion to what you are planning. You can't use the proprietary drain assembly so you have to fillet the Kerdi at the drain oprning.
The longest slope line is usually from a corner. And I thought the order of build was felt, slope mud (with wire mesh), liner, more mud, tile.
Ooops, backer board after liner, before second mud
backerboard? nope....just the top layer of mud then tile...or are you talking about backerboard on the walls?
blocking wall studs about 6" from floor up for liner though.
http://www.cliffordrenovations.com
Why do I keep...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7ZkQC0riwc
http://www.ramdass.org
250,
Listen to Andy, he knows his stuff, Liner first, mud (cement), then felt for the walls, 30' felt, backerboard (Durock or whatever) tile. Make sure the felt goes in after the liner i.e. so it overlaps.
WSJ
on the walls, over the liner, with no penetration of screws, locked in place by the top layer of mud
correctomondo : )
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http://www.cliffordrenovations.com
Why do I keep...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7ZkQC0riwc
http://www.ramdass.org
Just finishing up my first tiled shower pan. I found some videos at tileshop.com that were very helpful. I ended up going to one of their stores and buying the materials from them and using their system. The salesmen gave me a lot of advice in the store and over the phone. Worked out real good.
good videos! thanks. their approach is different than i'm going to use. they don't use blocking between the studs, for one thing.