Shower stall studs driving me crazy
edwardh1
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I am using furring strips to even up the walls of a shower stall before putting up cement board and then tile.
The furring strips thickness needs to vary from top to bottom of the stud!!! (on some studs)
– this is remodeling and there used to be a stall shower there (so studs were not the best)-
any tips?? – I have resorted to a few layers of tar paper behind some of the strips and will need the belt sander on a few others – really slow- something else I am missing?
Thank you
Edited 8/4/2009 5:46 pm ET by edwardh1
Replies
sister straight studs to what you have...
plumb, straight line or both to what ya need....
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Right -- sister.
Carry on.
Yep, it sucks.
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Solution #1 - As IMERC wrote: Sister the studs. Very easy and cheap.
Solution #2 - Omit the furring strips. Sheath wall and use thinset to plumb the tile. An 8" x 8" block with be helpful in setting the tile faces uniformly. This method requires more TLC and skill than #1.
Frankie
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Thrill each side for four minutes at torchmark haut. Interrogate a lemon.
Embarrass any tough roots from the samphire. Then bamboozle till it's al dente with that certain je ne sais quoi.
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Another trick that should work fairly well when using cement board is to drive screws into the studs, not quite flush. Adjust them in and out to achieve the degree of flatness you seek. You could then, if you want something more solid, fill in between the screws with thinset or some sort of spackle.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
We used to use that trick all the time when we were hanging vinyl covered drywall. We'd bridge the gaps with heavy glue and the screws would hold the board out till the globs set. It worked perfectly, as planned.
electric plane instead of belt sander.
plus don't get too carried away. It doesn't have to be perfect
Don't bother with any of that. Just put heavy glue on the low spots. It will span 3/8" if you use the right adhesive.
You could learn to cut a taper on the table saw or simply draw a tapered line down the side of a two by four and cut a straight line with a circular saw. Sometimes carpentry involves actual cutting of the material to fit. Vic
Actually I have a taper jig I have never used (for years) on my Powermatic table saw- think i will try it out tomorrow
Interesting -- whenever I rip a board I seem to get a fine taper without any jig.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
Let us know how that taper jig works out. I used to have a cheap taper jig, but I threw it away before I injured myself with it.
A high quality taper jig might be handy, but I usually make my own jig as needed, however this doesn't really sound like a problem needing a taper jig.
No the basic studs were put in for a fiberglass shower stall so the wood selection and placement was not too big a consideration issue for that then.sister studs are out due to electrical wires in a few places.the taper jig I have came from woodcrafters and should help- I will try it today- had it for years (a Christmas gift) never used it yet
It's generally easy enough to notch the sisters around the wires. Or to cut the sisters into shorter lengths and place on either side of a horizontal wire.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
Only jig needed is a steady freehand and a good eye. Once you do it a couple of times you'll have the wood cut faster than you can set up the jig. Vic
true- jig is only 4 ft long
I have cut some 8 ft tapers pretty well today
still have 10 fingers too
Or rip the zero to 1/4" shim over 92 with your track saw.
I'm so late to the party, but sister to the existing.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
Float your walls.....seriously :) what size tile are you planning on installing the larger the easyer it is to fix with mortor. otherwise sister them plumb and square
Craig
13x13
then some 6 inch on the top section
Edward
i guess the most important ? the one i should have asked earlier is how bad are the walls. With 13x13, and i might suggest you set them on the brick pattern, can handle 1/4' waves. strait but out of plumb is more difficult but it can be dealt with.
I would sister as discussed in the post. for the set i would choose custom multi-set $11 at HD mix it soft and use a 1/2 x1/2 trowel and it should do you well. (the reason for multi-set as apposed to say Tec 3n1, or custom Prolite, muliti-set isn't as "sticky" and thus some one who doesn't work with them everyday can adjust it easier than some of the "high performance" mortars), also mix it in 1/2 bag mixes as the pot life is about 3 hours before it starts to firm.
Craig
Another trick is to use your Sawzall to make a partial crosscut on the inside of the bowed part--the convex side, front or back as needed. Cut thru all but about 1" at the point of greatest bow.
Then straighten the offending stud and screw or nail on a short piece of stud (about 12") to its side to keep it straight and to give back strength where you cut it. It goes smoothly if you have a couple of good clamps to hold everything together as you nail/screw.