I have read both of Tom Meehan’s articles on installing shower pans. Both very informative. Tom advises to wrap the membrane over the threashold, and nail in place on the outside of the threashold. Of course, we should be careful not to puncture the membrane. However, I am still in the dark as to how to cover the inside and the top of the threashold with backer board over the the PVC membrane.
I can’t screw or nail it in place. Will thinset hold it in place?
OR, should I use wire mesh, and make a mud base on those two sides?
Thanks, in advance for your advice.
Replies
mud it with concrete
There are a couple of companies that make a one piece threshold out of a C.B.U. type material.
You can use 'fat' mud to do your curb. When you are laying in the wire mesh for the floor, extend a section if it out over the curb, enough do that it can fold up, over, and down on the outside. Do the floor with deck mud. After that's done, do the curb with fat mud (buy both types of mud in sacks at your tile shop). You can tack the wire to the outside of the curb if you want. Make the mud about 1" thick, and it will be quite rigid when cured. Don't use chunks of CBU on top of your curb, and definitely not inside.
I recommend you buy and read Michael Byrne's book 'Setting Tile'. Great book, a standard among tilesetters. I have not read Meehan's article but have heard some criticism of it. In general there are at least a few areas of debate about shower details.
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=177782#post177782
I agree with "most" of that.
I'd never think about notching ...
most of my tile jobs are as a sub ... so any stud notching isn't possible ... unless I wanna reframe for free ... and ... I think it's unnecessary anyways.
The extra thickness of the membrane just helps kick in the bottom of the tile towards to drain. If it's leading to an nondrain area ... no problem using trowel notch thickness(thinset) the blend the wall plane to a smooth transition.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
My bad.
Should have linked to the specific page: http://johnbridge.com/shower_curbs.htm instead if the general reference page since the post was specifically about curbs.
As far as notching vs not notching...go Kerdi.
Welcome to Breaktime. I see you have the same thread started in another section. That happens cuz there's a delay in posting the first message, and many people get impatient. You might want to find thge other thread and delete it.
I have not seen the Meehan book either, but if it did not make shower construction clear, then you need to toss the book in the trash and get Michael Byrnes book Setting Tile. Like other said, fold the wire into the right shape and cover with the right kind of mud. I don't think HD and Lowes carry deck mud, but any tile shop will have it. You will think it's the same as thinset, cuz it looks and acts the same, but it's very different so don't try to save a few bucks and substitute the wrong stuff. Showers are not a good place to cut corners.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
"OR, should I use wire mesh, and make a mud base on those two sides?"
Yes.
lay the lumber.
set the drain rough in.
"pour" the mudbed slope.
lay the rubber.
clamp the drain.
lay the diamond mesh.
and have it run up and over the 2x curb.
no nails needed ... over bend it ... friction fit everything ... over the curb .. and up the walls 6 inches. Plan on bloody knuckles and finger tips.
then ... mud the second layer ... and go up and over the curb. No need for backer board there ... and up the sides to meet the backer board ... make sure the "wall angle" is a true 90 ... and smooth.
or ... make that 90 "kick in" just a hair ... as I do ... helping direct the wall drain.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa