Replies

1. 
   BillHartmann | Sep 30, 2004 05:28pm | #1

   Well depending on how the water lines are setup they might not all drain and compressed air is needed to blow out the water.

   Also you need to get some RV antifreeze (non-toxic) and put in the drain traps.

2. 
   fredsmart48 | Sep 30, 2004 08:06pm | #2

   Make sure the valve does its job and shuts off the water.  Second you might want the city to shut off the curb stop  at the street for you first as long as you are going to be gone that long.

   Don't forget to shut off the electric water heater before you drain the water from the house.  Gas unless you know how get gas company to shut it off for you. 

3. 
   csnow | Sep 30, 2004 10:54pm | #3

   You might want to consider filling the hydronic heating system with a glycol solution.  That way you would not have to drain that down too.  Generally not easy to drain system dry.

   Don't forget to drain the sprayer at the sink, if you have one.

   If you can easily access all the low points in the potable water system, install strategic drain valves to save time and trouble.

4. 
   rasconc | Sep 30, 2004 11:11pm | #4

   If a lot of care was not put into the plumbing design to allow for winterizing you will have to work pretty hard.

   I winterize my sister's place in the mountains every year.  It was set up to turn off water, open valves below house and blow the lines.  As was said earlier turn off elec. water heater breaker, make a note beside it to reminding you to refill before energizing, I use a shop vac with some reducers and blow first (this one is also leaf blower, would not blow with a regular one) then vac each line. 

    Things to look out for are washing machines, dishwashers, icemakers. I vac the washing machine lines while it is set to fill on warm, clears out the solenoid valves.  Dishwasher, I vac the supply and drain line.  I blow any accessible traps with the blower then pour in about a pint of RV antifreeze or old auto antifreeze if in a rush and have it.  I pour about a quart (rv) or so in DW, washing machine.  On icemakers and dishwashers I vac the supply and take the lines off either side of the solenoid valve as it is easy to have water trapped in most of them.  The only problem I have had was a DW solenoid that froze before I started doing this step.

   I dip the toilet after flushing and pour in about a half gallon in the bowl and pint or so in tank.  I have heard that spraying wd-40 in your disposall is a good idea.

   Most people use an air compressor but unless you are using a pretty large volume (CFM) one I think you may not get the job done.  You can pretty well tell when a line has been vac'ed clear.

   Lastly write down what you did so you can reverse it in the spring!

   Bob

1. 
   ChipTait | Oct 01, 2004 01:56am | #5

   After reading all that, you might just do what I did with my house in the Alleghenies one winter: Set the thermostat at 50 degrees and alert the municipality that you'll be gone for a while...

2. 
   NickNukeEm | Oct 01, 2004 02:19am | #6

   Pretty thorough.  Other items I've come across that needed to be drained/blown out/vac'd are: Water filters/conditioners of any and all types, any loop seals in condensate lines (HVAC, etc.), and the growing number of instant hot water heaters (the point of use things at sinks.)

   BTW, I use an a/c, small 5 gallon 2.5hp unit, and it does the job.  Gotta let it catch up now and then, but my biggest concern is overpressurizing the system, so I ensure to use a regulator and dial it down to a reasonable number, anywhere from 30-60 psi.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!

1. 
   rasconc | Oct 01, 2004 04:42am | #7

   Good points, Sis's little place does not have such good things. 

   bottom line, if it has water in it, figure a way to get it out or protect it (antifreeze).

5. 
   dinothecarpenter | Oct 01, 2004 06:24am | #8

   Call your insurance. And do what they say.

   All the advice that you got make sense but IF something goes wrong your insurance can refuse the claim. 

   At list have someone ready to check the house and turning off the heat is not an option.

   At last thought you can have your insurance take the responsability.

   YCF Dino 

   
   

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   Edited 9/30/2004 11:39 pm ET by YCFriend

   
   

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   Edited 9/30/2004 11:58 pm ET by YCFriend

1. 
   batman | Oct 02, 2004 01:07am | #9

   a house can freeze in a very short time, if you decide to heat it to 45-50F, think about a "security system" w/ a low temp alarm that will "call" a monitoring service that will call you or someone you designate.  The phones often work even if power is off, a generator is always a handy thing to have around, show your neighbor wassup. 

   I can finally travel during the winter w/out worrying & checking the weather incessantly since I got the temp alarm & the generator.