Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 08:15am | #1

   *
   Ron,

   Off the top of my head, you might use four truth rollers on an upper and lower track. Even a swivel castor in a track in the floor and ceiling might work.

   Also, I recently had to price those rolling library ladders from Lewis and Company. They offered a curved track that the ladder could roll around inside corners on. Maybe you could modify that.

   How about.......you ever seen those motorized dry cleaning tracks? You know the one where the dry cleaning comes around the building till they get to yours? Maybe.......

   Those are my first thoughts.

   Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 09:50am | #2

   *hey Ed.Did I miss something...He is looking to side the walls not SLIDE them.I suppose that sliding ladders would make the siding easier....couldn't resistIts late;Adam

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 10:16am | #3

   *I don"t think this is going to work.

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 11:18am | #4

   *First I must apologize in advance for being a smart a&%^.Take 1 clapboard and bend it to your prescribed radius. Next take the broken pieces and use them for kindling. Finally buy cedar shingles and side the radius with them. If you really must use cedar clapboards and have all year to install them perhaps they could be steamed. I'd love to hear back on how this construction problem gets resolved.Joe

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 04:12pm | #5

   *Could the backs be curf cut? Also time consuming, but maybe less than steam . Maybe just as much kindling?

2. 
   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 04:27pm | #6

   *Joe,

   You are absolutely correct. Shingles are the way to go. If you try and bend a board that is not equal in depth across it's entire length, the bend will be co-planer and not linear.

   Joseph FuscoView Image"The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." -- Plato

3. 
   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 04:30pm | #7

   *Who designed this project and who picked the materials. Has he been strangled yet.I bet he is related to the same defective that has been locating chimneys to intersect with roof valleys in my area.good Luck,Stephen

4. 
   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 06:55pm | #8

   *If you kerf the backs of the boards you will be able to see the cuts from the underside of the lap.Not a very good look.

5. 
   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 09:26pm | #9

   *6' radius? Wow, that's tight. Shingles. Or, if it's painted, you might be able to work something out with fiber-cement, but it'd look wrong I bet. Fusco's right about the bending problem -- imagine trying to bend a piece of crown like this, same sort of problem. Of course, if you can figure it out it would look cool, and that's all the architect worries about.Thanks Adam, I thought I was losing my mind up there.

6. 
   Guest_ | Oct 09, 1999 12:13am | #10

   *We attached a 2x4 with 5/8ths-inch spacers next to the corner board. The corner board, BTW, had a 1/2 by 1" rabbet taken out of it, to perform similar to a vinyl J channel. Slipped the clap behind the 2x4 and then into the rabbet in the corner board. Bent it around the curve, layed it over the other corner board, marked for length, removed, cut, then reinstalled and then tucked it under the rabbet in the corner board on the other side. This was a half-turret job, 180 degree bend over a 12' 8" diameter. Staircase was inside. Quartersawn lays better than any flatsawn. Obviously, no knots allowed. Do not notch the siding under or over window or you'll set up weak points at the inside corners of the notches. Careful to keep the siding even when you stop it against a window, it wants to wander away from the board below it that goes fully around the half-turret. Use only full-length pieces.Didn't steam, didn't kerf. As others have mentioned, shingles would have been easier. Hand nailed with stainless (which I'm sure you're doing anyway) ringshanks. Drilled pilot holes for all nails. Used a preacher block to keep exposure even, but only used it at the midway point around the turret. We experimented on a mock-up with larger nail heads at the board ends, but they didn't seem neccessary.You'll need to be careful with the installation. Biggest concern will be the quality of wood. We had a few boards splinter before we developed enough of an eye to pick out boards with grain that would work. One or two puckered during nailiing. Once again, had to do with slight waves in the grain pattern. Select your boards carefully. Initially I wasn't thrilled with the J-channel detail on the corner board, but when the job was done I didn't really notice it. I should write that I still noticed it, it just didn't bug me as much. We mulled over several ideas to disguise it, but ended up leaving it as is.

7. 
   Guest_ | Oct 09, 1999 04:56am | #11

   *AdamS,Well,I guess I need to learn how to read......Putting siding on a curved wall is simple.Building a SLIDING wall is not..but it would be a lot of fun....we get asked to do this kind of stuff all the time.What can I say.....Ed. "Can't read" WilliamsSorry

8. 
   Guest_ | Oct 09, 1999 05:05am | #13

   *Ok,If I have to answer this one in the CONTEXT that it was written..........Re-saw band saw.Split the clapboards in half.It will take twice the material because of the saw kerf waste. Screw the back layer on then nail the front layer on with a good thick buttering of construction adhesive between.Ed. Williams

2. 
   Ron_Shah | Oct 09, 1999 05:05am | #12

   *
   I would like any tips on siding a 6' radius circular wall with cedar clapboards