First of all – a disclaimer – I’m a rank amateur.
I would like to side my house, which is a concrete block ranch. Thinking of doing something somewhat “rustic” (e.g., board and batten). I assume that I would need to use furring for attaching the siding. Is there any way to effectively attach furring to concrete block (nail driver with power loads, construction adhesive)?
Do I need any sort of a vapor barrier between the block and the furring/siding?
Any and all hints and comments most welcome!
These defensive details give homes a better chances of surviving wildfires.
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Replies
PT furring with PL premium adhesive and Tapcons to hold.
That is the mechanical part of it. For the VB part of your answer -
Where are you? Climate? What sort of wall section do you have now for insulation and VB
B&B is one of the worst for maintainance and longevity, btw
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Piffin. try this next time you need to fasten with tapcons. Drill with same 3/16" bit as for tapcons, cut a piece of tie wire ( rebar tie wire) about 4" long. Slip wire into hole and nail with a 16d nail. The wire acts like a wedge against the nail. Do not use this method if there is a chance you have to undo it. Holds like hell, if a 2x is fastened to concrete or concrete block and you pried it off with a 4'-0" stripping bar, chances are most of the nails will stay. You will pull the 2x right thru the nails.Haven't used a tapcon in 20 years.
mike
i've dine similar with small strips of lead. I assume that the wire would rust and expand from the corrosion for twenty years and then start to give it up, though it would be firmer in the meantime.
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I imagine the wire could rust if subject to water. Probably would last as long as a rebar tie . I have been using vinyl coated tie wire, used in highway rebar ties. Only because that's what I have left over.
mike
hey piffin...
say you are furring out a block wall to hang some hardiplank on there..
how thick of a strip would you use?
thanks
oak
I still don't have all the climate details, but for the Hardi, you are ading a heavy product, so 2x2 would be better than typical 3/4" furring. That way, you woul dhave more base for the heavier nails.
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Regardless where you live, I would not use T-1-11, unless you use the James Hardie board that looks like it, or pressure treated T-1-11. If you insist on using wood, use two coats of an oil base primer on all back sides, and all, and I mean all, edge cuts. Slightly cut the first coat of primer with the appropriate solvent to assure deep penetration. Finish with two coats of the best latex satin or semi-gloss paint. If possible only use double hot dipped nails; SS screws would be better, and a small head like trim screws.
And don't forget to use "Z" bar flashing on gable ends, and only pressure treated furring strips.
My 2¢ worth.
I'd chime in, but for the most part I could only second what's already been said.
If you live in the desert, you could get by without as much concern about moisture. Otherwise, Pif and Sonny have already said it.
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