Replies

1. 
   ~~Hammer1 | Aug 12, 2005 11:05pm | #1

   Novelty siding is tongue and grooved with the tongue end shaped similar to a raised panel edge. Clapboards are tapered across the width and lap over the preceding one. With either one, you choose a place to make a vertical cut on each piece back from the damage. There are a few different ways to make the cut. Of course, the end cuts want to be staggered back and forth. The most basic way to make the cut is with a hammer and chisel. Scribe a square line with a sharp utility knife, use the chisel to come to the line at a 45°+- angle. You just want to nibble away about 1/16" deep at a time. This takes time and patience, it you start trying to go too deep, you may split the piece and have to start over.

   If you have a Fein multimaster, this is a great tool for making such cuts. Some will carefully plunge cut with a circular saw. I often use a router with a guide to compensate for the taper on a clapboard. All of these cuts generally need to be finished off with a sharp knife and/or a chisel. Since clapboards overlap, you will have to pry the top one open so that you can get a knife up under the last one that is staying. If you cut the top one the longest, the ones underneath will be easier to get to from the top down.

   With the novelty siding, it's usually 3/4" thick, you do it like removing hardwood flooring. Make your end cuts and then rip down the length and gently pry out the top piece. Again remove from the top down, reinstall from the bottom up. As with flooring, you will have to remove the back side of the groove on the last piece.

   If you don't have or are uncomfortable with power tools, a perfect tool for doing the end cuts is a veneer saw. They are a 3"-4" semi curved blade with a straight handle. If you score your end cut line with a knife and then cut a small V from the waste side to the score, you will have a nice little V groove for the saw to ride in. Try to take advantage of any existing end cuts that are already in the siding.

   All of these cuts are difficult to get straight and accurate. Don't try to cut in a knot and don't try to rush it by breaking out before it is fully cut, Rather than slicing hard with a knife, you are better to just push in on the tip and wiggle it back and forth. A hard pull down with the knife will likely scratch and cut the piece below or you.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   jrnbj | Aug 12, 2005 11:07pm | #2

   what a nice, concise repy!!!

2. 
   Piffin | Aug 13, 2005 12:13am | #3

   some Novelty style is T&G but some is a shiplap version, which would be easier to replace 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   jaune | Aug 13, 2005 01:15am | #4

   Thank you -- that's very helpful. This is novelty siding; the house was built in 1882 and the boards are a full inch thick. I'll have to shim up at the studs to get the newer stuff in. I do have a Fein multimaster; use it mostly for fine sanding. I'll try it for the rip cuts, too. One question: what do you mean by "removing the back side of the groove on the last piece?Again, thanks. J. Aune

1. 
   ~~Hammer1 | Aug 13, 2005 03:09am | #5

   Hi Jaune,1" novelty will be a thick piece to cut. What kind of blades do you have for your Fein? I haven't tried any of the newer M cut styles, maybe someone with experience can suggest which blade will work the best. I have been using the hardwood flush cut blade. If they weren't so pricey I'd get them all. The flush cut Fein blade won't get tight into the corners, that's where the E or M blades will help. You'll get an easier rip cut with a circular saw than the Fein. I wouldn't be afraid to make as many cuts as you need to get the first piece out. If your siding is T&G, you can slide the groove down on the tongue on all but the last piece. If you are piecing in below some existing siding or a frieze, soffit, etc., there won't be enough room to push the tongue up into the existing piece of siding and also get the groove over the tongue below. The groove is a slot with material left on the front and back. By removing just the back material you have a shiplap and that will solve the problem. As Piffin said, the siding may all be shiplap.In a situation like yours, old house, old siding, I would take a careful assessment of the job. Off the shelf siding may not only be less thick but it could vary in width as well as the tongue, groove or lap. If you are on a historical register, there may be restrictions. If there are only a few pieces that need replacement, you may be better off making them to match. If there is a lot of replacing to do, it may make sense to strip the whole wall. This would give you the chance to address any other issues, maybe insulate and add a house wrap. I do think the conservative approach is the first option but I've also worked on old places and know there can be gremlins hiding. Best of luck, and make sure you get back to us with how it went.