*
Just finished browsing through FHB’s “More Small Houses”. How come more people don’t integrate siding and sheathing, for example, T-111? Is there a rain-screen approach to using T-111 as both sheathing and siding? Seems like a good way to cut costs, especially for owner / builders. TIA.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Learn more about the benefits and compliance details for the DOE's new water heater energy-efficiency standards.
Featured Video
Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by BrickHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
Dear Aaron,
Actually, many homes are built with T-111. But the product is limited by asthetic, durability, and life cycle expense problems.
Horizontally speaking, Fred
*I'd like to try translucent blue plastic -- someone here proposed building an iHouse and I've been thinking about it ever since...Some siding products can go right over the studs, provided there is a "weather resistive barrier" (felt?) protecting the wood and let-in bracing to stiffen the corners. i was reading about using fiber-cement this way last night.
*Mike,I like a lot of the detailing, but what exactly are we looking at here?Richard Max
*One front door, and annoyingly it would be round and unmarked so that you couldn't be sure which way to grab it. Then there would be a side door with lots of cryptic portals for the newspaper, telephone, etc; and a big button that turns all the power off -- usually.Steve Zerby's idea originally.
*A hatchet-faced house of mixed pedigree.
*That is indeed T-1ll. The panels between the windows are plain sawn the walls are 8 oc. The natural siding is tight not cedar. The problem I have always had with T-111 is the detailing. This is the primary cause of failure both aesthetically and mechanically.T-111 is often called for with no consideration of how details should be handled. I dislike Z-bar. It is ugly and allows water to enter the end of the panels. The only way to avoid it is to design carefully. I think that I used a total of about 3' of Z-bar on this house. Door and window casings are often just some rough sawn trim thrown on to hide unsightly joints. This, too, is a serious cause of failure. T-111 treated and maintained with care need not be inferior. In this particular design the choice of T-111 was as much aesthetic as economic. It serves to set off the cedar making it more promenent in a way that would not have been possible using cedar alone.I don't know of any premade window or door unit that opens more than 50%. 66.6% would be easily possible but no one makes one. 100% is more common. Commercial units are expensive. I have always designed units using off the shelf components. Given more details of your application I can make specific suggestions.