Hi All;
Newbie here. Just got my first issue of Fine HomeBuilding and love it!
Two questions I’m looking for help on.
1. What is the best trick for adhering torn sheetrock paper before patching? I tried just applying joint compound but have a few blisters. Someone told me to try flat paint, but I got blisters. I seem to remember a long time ago the trick was to use shellac but I haven’t tried it.
2. I’m about to start a kitchen remodel which will include a large bay window above a sink. How do I run the sink vent? This is an exterior wall with large window on the second floor directly above. Most kitchens have a sink infront of a window. I’ve never seen a loop-vent installed on one, but its the only way I can come up with other than drilling through jack and king studs. Any ideas?
Thanks for any help!
Rob
Replies
Don't try to re-glue the torn paper. Cut it off cleanly and skimn coat with all-purp joint compound. The blistering you are getting is a sure sign of torn face paper.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Don't leave loose paper on sheetrock. Cut or tear it away before you tape and float. Anything loose will eventually bubble.
Sorry, I can't help with the venting issue.
On the DW--just remove all the loose stuff and go to town--in a recent skim over an existing wall that I was tyeing into I primed the nasty wall with regular primer and that glued all the fuzzies down so I didn't have to chace them down with more layers--
As for the vent in our area, Mn. we use 2x6 exterior walls---we have no problem putting a hole thru the studs to get around the window--In other areas with 2x4 you can use the steel reenforcing plates if the hole is larger than permited in your area.
Welcome aboard---did you bring any snacks with you????
Mike
" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Thanks for all the replies!I did use a razor blade and cut / removed all the loose paper, but it still blistered. Maybe I should have removed the paper back to the gypsum layer?Mike: The house has 2x4's and for the most part pretty crapy construction (built in '71). I'm going through the basement right now and adding joist hangers (lots of the joist have 3/8" gaps at the ends).I'll check into the reinforcement plates. I'm a little concerned about a large bay window hung with cables from the header and the resulting bending moment that will be placed on those studs.Any idea what code calls for on a single fixture vent (1.5"?). It will only vent this sink, go up to the attic and tie into the rest of the vents. The current sink location only uses a 1.5" vent. The basement bathroom uses a 2" vent, but that is venting three things (toilet, tub, sink).Thanks!
For the sink vent, if necessary you can use an air admittance valve - a common brand name is Studor vent. http://www.studor.com/index.htm
Not always the best solution but works well when standard venting is not possible.
I was told (by a licensed plumber) that air admittance valves don't meet code in the area (Montgomery County Maryland). He suggested the loop vent.
I've had that venting problem many times, including recently in my own house. As you say there is always a window right at the sink and it's hard to meet the code for venting AND boring/notching studs.
My solution is to run the trap arm for the sink inside the cabinet into the next cabinet over, and then go into the wall. You install your drain/vent pipe right next to the king stud of the window RO with a tee out of the wall at 45 degrees. Drill thru the sides of the cabinets so the trap arm can come over and 45 into the tee.
You can make a 1-1/2" pipe hug the back of the cabinet nicely, and the owner will be OK with it if you explain the two issues first. They want strong framing, and they want drains that flow. Only problem is if there are drawers on both sides, in which case I shorten one drawer by 2" and get slides that are 2" shorter.
Sounds like a good way to do it. I'll have to see how it lays out. I'm planning on 8' of windows, so thats 4' off to one side of the sink center-line. I'll have to see how many cabinets I'd need to go through. Maybe I can run it to the side the dishwasher is located. I'll have to check the dishwasher depth.Wait, I just realized you're running the trap arm, not just the vent. I know there are length restrictions on the trap arm. I'll have to see if 5' of 1.5" is allowed.Thanks!