Replies

1. 
   david_sorg | Jan 15, 1999 03:10am | #1

   *
   Larsen Products makes something called Plaster Weld that I would apply over the previosly sealed areas. USG has a product that is a setting plaster that is available with various set times up to 120 minutes. It may even be called easy sand (or something similiar), but it does sand nicely. Sorry I can't remember the exact name, you could probably get it at their website.

2. 
   John_Mercede | Jan 15, 1999 05:36am | #2

   *
   Per
   I have had great sucess using plain old light weight joint compound as a skim coat for all kinds of repair. It is very easy to work with, sands easily and I have not see a problem with any of the patched areas.

   When skimming over old drywall that has damaged paper, I will use a shellac based primer first, to "harden" the paper surface. (This is typically the case after tearing off the '70's style wood panels installed with construction adhesive.

   Expect to apply two or three coats to smooth an area. Doing thin coats will give you time in between to assess the job you're doing. Done right you won't have any sanding to do.

   I had a problem once when oil based paint was applied directly over a patched drywall area. Since that time, I use latex paint on top of newly patched drywall

   Hope this helps

3. 
   Guest_ | Jan 15, 1999 11:26am | #3

   *
   Per, this is a little off the main subject, but have you thought of setting up some sort of scaffold? You know, a coupla' sarhases with a plank. You wouldn't have to move the ladder all the time.

4. 
   Steve_Howell | Jan 15, 1999 03:53pm | #4

   *
   I've used USG 120 (quick set powder) and premixed mud over cleaned and lightly sanded painted ceilings with large patched areas in two seperate smaller bathrooms with daily steam. Sealed both first with BIN alcohol based primer. The 120 failed about three years later, the premixed has lasted for over 5 years. MR sheetrock is not good for ceilings.

1. 
   JohnK | Jan 15, 1999 07:06pm | #5

   *Steve,If you don't like MR sheetrock for the ceiling, then what do you use? Thanks, John

5. 
   Guest_ | Jan 15, 1999 11:07pm | #6

   *
   I thought of that, but due to the constraints of the space I'm working in, it's not so practical. The highest point in the room (where the inside wall & the cathedral ceiling meet) is directly above where the door swings in, as does the shower stall door (where I am storing tools & stuff). Also, since I'm 6'4" & weigh in around 240 lbs, I'd have to have some pretty beefy horses & planks....pretty high ones too, since the peak is about 12' up! Unfortunately, ladder seems to be the lesser of 2 evils.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 15, 1999 11:12pm | #7

   *I've checked w/ all my local suppliers, & I can't seem to get any "Easy Sand"-type plaster, so I may end up using pre-mixed mud by default. I believe the MR sheetrock is not recommended for ceilings because it is not as rigid as regular sheetrock. I have (hopefully) compsensated for that by being very liberal in my use of screws to secure it to the rafters (cathedral ceiling). If you catch me posting again in about 6 months complaining of falling-ceiling-induced headaches, you'll know it did not work.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 16, 1999 12:25am | #8

   *Per,I ceased being a fan of pre-mixed joint compound for repairs and top coating some years ago after I discovered setting compound. Setting compound contains plaster of paris and sets in as few as 20 minutes or as many as 120, and the number on the bag refers to this time. Joint compound, on the other hand, must dry, and it takes a good 24 hours for this to happen. Joint compound also shrinks (and cracks) as it dries (giving up moisture volume), making it unsuitable for repairs with any depth. It's also a bear to sand, which has to be done to remove its grain. I do most of my house projects on weekends, so I can't wait a day for joint compound to dry between layers. Also, I only mix what I need, so I don't have a tub of joint compound hardening between projects.Sheetrock is a common setting compound brand, and I tend to use Easy Sand 90 (90 minutes being about right for someone as slow and clumsy as I). Now, as our resident plasterer will tell you, there're also pure plaster and lime products (gauging and finish plasters) you may wish to consider, but these take a bit more skill to use than do setting compounds. For a product tour, go to USG's Web site at http://www.usgaction.com/ and click on TechLib, then Gypsum Construction Handbook.I hope this makes you reconsider drywall mud. I also can't believe your suppliers can't find you setting compound -- it's probably sitting right next to the tubs of mud in their stores.Barry

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 16, 1999 02:41am | #10

   *PerI find it hard to believe that you can't get some EasySand. Do you live somewhere near the moon, perhaps? Its made by USG/Sheetrock, and I can get it at virtually every building supplier in my neck of the woods, which come to think of it ain't too far from the moon either. I've also seen it at Home Depot. USG's competitor (what's their name? American Gypsum, or something like that) makes what I assume is a comparable product called (I think) Sta-Smooth.Good stuff. A skim coat over battered and repaired plaster walls can almost make you feel like a plasterer. It's not as hard as a plaster finish, but if someone nicks it, it's easy to repair.

6. 
   Guest_ | Jan 16, 1999 02:41am | #9

   *
   I have (finally) finished the re-insulation & sheetrocking of the bathroom I had to tear apart this summer/fall. Once I took the ceiling out, more and more damage (from a leaky skylight installed by previous owners) became apparent, so I ended up with a job 10x larger than I expected when I started. Sound familiar?

   Anyway, for reasons I won't bore you with, it was not practical to remove all of the walls & ceilings down to the studs. I replaced approximately 2/3 of the exterior wall & the entire ceiling (angled cathedral-style, going from 8' to 12' high) with moisture resistant sheetrock. The remaining walls are standard sheetrock, with about 1/2 of it painted with what looks like an oil-based sealer (it was wallpapered), and the other 1/2 unpainted (it was covered with rough-cut cedar planks).

   So now I basically have 3 types of surfaces. The existing old walls are not terribly even in places, and some of the joints where they come together are not square (i.e. a lot of joint compound was used to align adjacent surfaces which were mis-aligned by as much as 1/2").

   I would like to apply a skim coat of plaster to the entire interior of the bathroom to create a uniform texture. My local hardware store advised me to smear a thin coat of joint compound over everything, but I'm not sure I like that idea.

   What type of plaster would adhere to all 3 surfaces (mainly worried about the old painted wall)? I need something that has a reasonably long set time (>30 min.) since I have to keep moving the ladder to reach the upper part of the cathedral ceiling & walls. It also has to be fairly easy to sand, since I'm expecting some of the inside joints & corners to be a bit tricky to get right the first time.

   Thanks in advance for any guidance.