Replies

1. 
   John_Quinton | Jun 03, 2001 10:24pm | #1

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   I had the cordless Makita and found that it turned too slowly to give a really fine cut (2000 rpm). I arranged to trade it in for the corded version which turns at 6000 rpm. It is the best little saw I have ever owned. Its light (27lbs) and accurate. I also have a big Dewalt 12" that sits in the shop while the little makita goes everywhere. Combined with the Bosch mitre finder it is the best saw for crown and casing I have ever used. And I was really pleased the Makita rep arranged to change what I though of as an expensive mistake into a tool that I am very happy with with no fuss at all even though I had had the saw for over a year. Plus the blades are cheaper than the 12" and cheaper to have sharpened

1. 
   Ross_Welsh | Jun 04, 2001 01:01am | #2

   *Brad:For a basic, simple and small saw I like the Makita LS 1030N. It is a 10" saw but is pretty light and compact with a solid handle on top for easy one handed manuvering. It has better detents and a taller fence than previous basic models. Going with a 10" may be an advantage because it is a common size. This is NOT a compound or slide model though.

1. 
   James_DuHamel | Jun 04, 2001 09:41am | #3

   *I have the Delta 8 1/4" miter saw, and I hate it. It is extremely light, easy to tote around, but innacurate as can be. I can hold the handle and with very little effort, move the blade assembly about 1/4" left or right. This means that when I am pulling the blade down to make a cut, if I am not EXTREMELY careful, I can be UP TO 1/4" off of the mark (left or right - take your pick)I only use the saw when I have to make cuts in very small pieces, and tight fitting joints are not the goal. What a waste of saw. PLUS... and this is a big deal... 8 1/4" blades are hard to find here. 8" blades are very common, but you can't cut all the way through a piece with an 8" blade unless you add a board to the fence. This will push the piece out far enough to get cut all the way through by the blade. Been there, done that.Just my 2¢ worth.James DuHamel

1. 
   Coolflow_ | Jun 05, 2001 03:47am | #4

   *For shoe, have you thought about a hand shear? I've never used one-has anyone else?I think it's made by Lowe-saw it at my local tool store. Don't know if it would work for the other trim profiles you use.

1. 
   James_DuHamel | Jun 06, 2001 07:59pm | #5

   *Yeah, I tried one on a job once.Squashes the trim real good if the blade ain't RAZOR sharp. Works better on plastic molding than wood. Even when it is sharp, it has a very difficult time cutting those paper thin slices like the ads show.Good thing it wasn't mine. I would have made a paperweight out of the thing.James DuHamel

2. 
   Jeff_J._Buck | Jun 06, 2001 09:25pm | #6

   *My Dad tried the craftsman one......as seen on TV!......for trimming armstrong stick on tiles.....as shown on TV!.......and when you nipped a corner out...it either cracked, or distorted the tile. Went back the same day he bougt it. Jeff

3. 
   Brad_Raymer | Jun 06, 2001 11:18pm | #7

   *Thanks for all the input,I did not realize that Makita makes the 7 1/4" slider in a corded version. Now to find one and get my wife to okay the funds.

4. 
   Coolflow_ | Jun 07, 2001 06:05am | #8

   *James:I thought as much-it DID look too good to be true! Could'nt see how it could cut that cleanly.

5. 
   Gabe_Keway | Jun 07, 2001 02:10pm | #9

   *brad, I haven't seen that makita yet; although, i do own the 10" SCMS and have no complaints.for years, starting out as a trim carp., i seemed to forever be atleast 30 feet above ground on scaffold. and in those years i used a HITACHI 8-1/4" SCMS. it had always been a great machine...reasonably weighted, lots of hand-holds to monkey it up high with,and damned accurate too. the only reason i do not own one now is for the fact that it doesn't have a L/R bevel feature.it runs $450 new, but is a very worthy machine.of course, if you feel you don't need the slide feature, you could go out for $100-$150 and get a good 10" chopsaw/mitresaw. it would be about 10-20 pounds lighter than a slider and for that low price, you'll save on the tears when it falls 30 feet.....rendering it a 10" compound pile of dust.best of luckgabe

6. 
   Gerard_De_Lany | Jun 07, 2001 04:20pm | #10

   *Thoughts on the matter...Brad, I'd say to use a compound-miter (no slide) if you could get away with it, just to reduce the hassles of going up and down scaffolding with it. My Hitachi (slide) has a tendency to want to flip backwards off of narrow benches when I've pushed the motor all the way home, so, if you go the 8&1/4 Hitachi route, keep an eye on the thoroughness of support you've given the saw. As to brand choice, Hitachi seems the most durable of the slide-compounds.Gabe, I guess this is the climber in me coming out: Why not tie the saw to the scaffold? 1" webbing is cheap compared to saws. If the saw fell off the scaffold it would get a hell of a yank, yes, but it might survive needing no more than a tune up. What do you think? Hope the input helps, Gerard

7. 
   Gabe_Keway | Jun 08, 2001 12:56am | #11

   *I usually just tie the cord around my neck....that'll teach ya to be carefull!actually, we just mounted a board to the bottom of the saw to keep it from taking backward leaps. And to say the least, I'm yet to have a saw commit suicide....heard many ugly stories though.gabe

2. 
   Brad_Raymer | Jun 08, 2001 12:57am | #12

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   I have been up on scaffolding alot lately running ceiling beams and a large coffered ceiling. I would like to have a small (7 1/4 or 8) miter saw to set up on the scaffold with me. My 12" Dewalt is heavy and requiers alot of space to sit safely. I run so much small panel moulding, shoe, etc., that a nice saw would be worth the money. The two I have found are the cordless Makita- too expensive, and an 8" Delta that I did not like the feel of (not that I don't like some of their tools). Anyone have a suggestion?