Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 30, 1999 07:45am | #1

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   I would go with the skimcoat, provided your surface is not too glossy for it to bond. A deglosser may help if it is. You could also use real gauging plaster for the skimcoat, painting on a PVA (white glue) "primer" first and letting it gum up to increase adhesion.

   I have debated doing similar things in my house but have yet to do so extensively. However, my experience with patches has been that mud blends invisibly.

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 30, 1999 04:44pm | #2

   *I have done this before also, and priming with 1-2-3 and skimcoating does a good job. However, I would mix a batch of Durabond 90 about the consistency of joint compound and use that as a first coat. Durabond has much better adhesion than regular mud. Another trick I have seen my drywall finisher do is mix Durabond in with regular joint compound and some water to get a mix that has some of the better qualities of both.Also, take a scraper and knock off the high spots first.

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 01, 1999 10:11am | #3

   *Robert I have used a product called Plasterweld in similar situations. I am a carpenter not a plasterer so You may want to call in one of them. I got it from a drywall wholesaler. Hope it might help. Though back breaking the sanding is a good route for overall results.

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 01, 1999 05:38pm | #4

   *... though be careful ... they used asbestos for an astonishing variety of products, including spackle & joint compound. And there's always lead paint too.The wall-leveling I've done -- usually accidentally because I had a patch to do and could not replicate the odd pebbly finish on the plaster -- came out well and is unnoticeable. Fortunately you already have a more-or-less flat wall to guide you, so truing the wall isn't an issue.

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 02, 1999 04:15am | #5

   *I have also used the product plasterweld and another product made by euco.After rolling on the plasterweld and letting it dry, I used durabond to skim a light leveling coat. I put the durabond on with a ten inch knife in rows from floor to ceiling the width of a blade away from the previous stripe. When the first row of d.b. dries I go back and stripe the areas between. This technique makes it easier for an amatuer to get a smoother, flatter finish.Once the whole wall dries I mix up all purpose j.c. about the consistency of cake batter and roll out a bg area with a 3/4 nap paint roller.Once i have a good amount on thre wall I will take 14" flat trowel and smooth it out.Once the whole wall is dry knock down the high spots and tool marks with a knife and spackle any small divots and craters. If you have any cracks repair them first with fiberglass tape and roll the plasterweld over it to bond it.

2. 
   robbwilson | Oct 03, 1999 11:23am | #6

   *
   I have had experience with house I bought having a room
   painted in gloss black paint with psychedelic orange paint
   flowers in abundance. I thought about keeping it as a
   keepsake to the 60's and too many tabs, but gave it up
   because my daughter needed a room to sleep in.

   My soution was to use 123 right over the gloss paint. Then
   I skim coated with Goldbond, really light, just to get a
   layer on - maybe only 1/32". Then I skimcoated again to
   build some thickness. Total thickness applied was probably
   only 1/16". Then I primed that and applied a latex topcoat.

   It's been 8 years and no problems.

   You may want to go the Plasterweld route first instead, and
   apply plaster skim coat over that. You can check out info
   on plaster weld at
   http://www.larsenproducts.com/plasterweld.html

   Thanks for your reply to my post.

1. 
   Bob_Lee | Oct 05, 1999 06:52am | #7

   *Thanks for the reply and web site for plasterweld. No one in my area has heard of it maybe the company can tell me who carries it here.

3. 
   Guest_ | Oct 05, 1999 08:22am | #8

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   Has anyone ever tried patching one of these wall treatments? I have this stuff all over my house! I have had to relocate some lighting fixtures, and I am in desperate need of a method of "blending" in the patch with the old stuff. Should I just mix up some coarse sand with the mud and apply with a sponge? I would try the skimcoat deal, but the thought of all that sanding makes me shutter...!

   Seriously, though. I'd much prefer to patch the one or two areas that need attention, rather than skimcoating the entire freakin' house!

   -Keith

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 05, 1999 09:26am | #9

   *No, sanding smooth is about the worst idea. As for recreating texture, there are a bunch of different ways of doing it as individual as plasterers. My blend-in efforts have been OK. A sponge or thick-nap roller may help; some effects are achieved with "skip" troweling as the plaster hardens.For a "sand finish" you could mix sand in the white plaster ... but I bet it would be easier to put it in the paint. Otherwise the sand might reveal your trowel strokes more than you want...Check the USG site, http://www.usg.com They make plaster and sand-finish paint products.

4. 
   robbwilson | Oct 08, 1999 10:22am | #10

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   If they don't have it where you are, you can use
   USG Plaster Bonder. Same stuff - basically a PVA
   (poly vinyl acetate) with proprietary additions.
   But don't use the PVA primer you can get at Home
   Depot. It's not the same stuff.

   Ro

1. 
   PHILIP_THIESSEN | Oct 11, 1999 11:14pm | #11

   *When smoothing out textured plaster do I wait for it to dry and then sand, or can I do it when the mud is still damp with a sponge?

5. 
   Robert_E._Lee | Oct 12, 1999 01:51am | #12

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   Any suggestions on how to get rid of or cover a textured plaster wall surface. The walls are about the feel of 24 grit sandpaper and are painted with both gloss and satin paint. The plaster is sound with no cracks or water damage. I tried sanding with 80 grit on a random orbit sander as an experiment it would be a long process. I was wondering about painting them with a good bonding primer such as Zinser 123 or KILZ then skimcoating with joint compound. I am concerned as to the durablity of this method. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

6. 
   Guest_ | Oct 12, 1999 01:51am | #13

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   Let it dry and sand. Trying to smooth it out with a damp sponge is damn near impossible.Be more vigilant when putting the mud on to avoid sanding a lot.