I’m replacing my bathtub in my first floor bathroom with a shower retro kit. While I have the walls open I would like to run a soil stack up to an upstairs room just in case in the future if I decide to add a bathroom I won’t have to open up the walls to get the soil stack past the first floor. I would simply cap the 3″ PVC pipe at the top and bottom until I was ready to put in the bathroom. My questions are 1.) Can you run a 3″ PVC pipe in a 2×4 wall? 2.) Is there any other way to do this? 3.) Does anyone have any suggestions? I know this will be noisy, I’m not worried about the noise.
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you can but you cant. A 3 inch pvc schedule 40 is 3 1/2. a 2x4 is 3 1/2 wide. if you need to add a fitting forget it. with fitting it tight in a 6 inch wall.
I understand the size constraints and there would not be any fittings in the wall. The fittings would be in the joist space of the second floor and in the crawl space at the bottom. Can this pass inspection and does it require any shields over the PVC piping.
Around here the local plumbers use schedule 30 in the walls. Im not sure
if they change to schedule 40 once they get into the basement or attic.
I perfer the thicker pipe so used sec40 in my house.Were talking 3' pipe here
If it's installed carefully, you can even use fittings. You just have to scoop out the back of the sheetrock, or whatever the wall surface is, a little bit. Not ideal but you gotta do what you gotta do, when remodeling.
Mike
If you scoop out for a fitting do it manually with a scraper or chisel. Don't try to scoop with a skilsaw. (Don't ask me how I know this)Or if it doesn't mess much with trim on the wall you might want to just fur out the studs a bit before the drywall.
A person with no sense of humor about themselves is fullashid
If you do manage to squeeze this in, it'll be noisy. The pipe will be well coupled to the drywall to amplify the noise of the water etc. falling down the pipe. But since it's from one bathroom to the other, noise won't be as much of an issue.
I have seen reference to a schedule 30 3" PVC for this type of problem.
Don't know if it is limited to venting or can be used for waste also.
Pipe schedule generally changes the wall thickness, NOT the OD. Dunno if what you're talking about is 3" OD tubing, or perhaps a metric size. Either way, sched 30 is an oddball.
What you CAN get is 3" OD copper, though! Wouldn't want to pay for it, but I'd imagine it can be had...
It might not be most common, but google on - 3" pvc sch 30 DWV - gets lots of hits.Here is a bushing from sch 40 to sch 30 3"http://doityourself.com/store/6168231.htmHere are hangers, with a special version for 3" sch 30 so apparently the OD is different.http://www.siouxchief.com/B_Product_Detail.cfm?GroupID=051500And a pipe manufacture.http://www.freedomplastics.com/cert-letters.htm
I checked Charlotte Pipe, a North Carolina mfr. Everything I found in 4" nominal was 4.5" od, sch 40 or 80. They had sdr 35 and it was the same. I checked 3" and it was the same for 40 and 80 but not shown for sdr35. The wall thickness was greater for the higher sch with the same od.
Sch pipe has constant wall thickness for different size pipes. SDR has a standard ratio so that the strenght stays the same as the size changes." They had sdr 35 and it was the same. "That is not right.http://www.charlottepipe.com/Documents/PL_Tech_Man/PL_Tech_Man/html/PL_Tech_Man.htmlPage 22 sch 40 4" is 4.5,
Page 30 SDR 35 4" is 4.215You need an adaport to go from sch 40 to SDR 35.Now I can't find it in the tech reference, but look under products and they list sch 30 3" and under that.http://www.charlottepipe.com/Default.aspx?Page=ASTMD2949" D 2949: Specifications for 3.25-in. outside diameter poly (vinyl chloride) (PVC) plastic drain, waste, and vent pipe and fittingsScope: The requirements of this specification are intended to provide pipe and fittings suitable for drainage of sewage and certain other liquid waste. "Note the 3.25 OD.Genova has a complete set of pipes and fittings.http://www.genovaproducts.com/Sch30.pdf"# Sch. 30 In-Wall PVC-DWV Pipe and Fittings -- specially made to be used inside a 2" x 4" stud wall construction. Used in Drain-Waste-Vent applications."I am not always as crazy as I sound <G>.
Thanks, I knew I saw it somewhere but there is a 4" sdr pressure which is 4.5.
Page 13 of this document which is the industrial manual.
http://www.charlottepipe.com/Documents/Industrial_Tech_Manual/Industrial_Tech_Manual.pdf
I am more familiar with the thinwall sdr that is smaller od. Normally called s&d by the folks I work with.
And with reference to your last sentence, Never do you sound crazy!
The original poster said he was going to put a stub in for future possible use with connections to be made above and below and not in the wall. I was wondering if a stack carrying a toilet would be quieter if it was at a slight angle, ie across the diagonal of a stud bay?
Edited 8/10/2005 1:00 am ET by RASCONC
One of the strange things about this is that there are different standards for which for the "same product" or nearly the same product.If you notice the SDR series in your link are for pressure, and smaller SDR numbers, and the OD is 4.5"SDR 35 is 4.125"I am more familiar with the thinwall sdr that is smaller od. Normally called s&d by the folks I work with."S&D is compeletely different product from SDR 35, but the OD is the same and they can use the same fittings.http://keithspecialty.com/dwv.sewer_drain_pipe_and_fittings.htm" S&d pipe joints have a bell [hub, flare] at one end for continuous assembly without couplings.
Solvent weld glue is recommended to secure the assembly.
Our s&d has a crush rating of 3000 pounds per foot.
SDR-35 sewer and drain pipe is not crush-rated; but it has a thicker wall and is heavier pipe.
SDR-35 has the same outside diameter on the pipe (and inside diameter in the bell ends) to fit all s&d fittings."Now I found a place that has all of them.This is DWV line and includes the sch 30. It is for inside use.http://www.cresline.com/cresline_drainfittings.html
http://www.cresline.com/pdf/cresline/dwvpipe&ftgs/pvc761dwv.pdfASTM D 2665 for sch 40 DWV
ASTM D 2949 for sch 30 DWVHere is the sewer and drain line which is only to used outside.http://www.cresline.com/cresline_pvcdrain.htmlIt includes
http://www.cresline.com/pdf/cresline/drain&sewerpipe&ftgs/pvc563sewer.pdfASTM 3034 for SDR 35 4.215 OD, 0.120" wallhttp://www.cresline.com/pdf/cresline/drain&sewerpipe&ftgs/pvc562ds.pdfASTM D 2729, marked Sewer and Drain, 4.215" OD, 0.070" wallBoth SDR 35 and S&D are both available as solid and as preforated.
Yes, there is 3" nominal DWV copper. Its actual OD is 3 1/8". I used some for downspouts from my copper gutters.
-- J.S.
Edited 8/9/2005 6:45 pm ET by JOHN_SPRUNG
Mike Maines is correct. If you add fittings you will have to tweek the drywall. Luck.
I know this may be obvious but no one else has said it yet. Can you build the wall (or part of it)out to 2x6? I have put 3" PVC sch40 in a 2x4 wall but it is tight.
or if the wall is already there furr it out with some lath on either side?
or strap it with 1x
why is the 2x4 wall so critical?
Edited 8/9/2005 11:59 pm ET by CAG
This is for possible future use and will not be used right away or maybe at all. The bathroom side will have Corian surface on walls and I don't want to have to bump out this wall and the other side of the wall is a finished space which I don't want to disturb. It must fit in 2x4 or it's a no go.
I figured there was a logical reason. Three inch will fit but just as others have said it'll be snug. How about furring the wall out only 1/4" inch as cagiv suggested? That would give you a little extra if you needed but not be noticed in the room. Of course you'd have to do the whole wall for a flat edge for your corian top. Unless you have seperate backsplashes.
Here are the actual details of what I'm doing. I've removed the tub and plaster up to 6' high which was behind the tile. I'm replacing the tub with a retrofit show base and using corian type solid surface walls but only up 6 feet. The bedroom above does not have a bath and we've often thought it would be nice if it did. So the plan is to add the 3" pvc pipe where the wall is opened up. However the wall is only open 6 feet high so I've got to be able to get the 3" pvc in by slipping it down into the crawl space below the finished wall at the top and then slip it up into the joist space above through the hole I need to drill through the top plate. I don't want to mess up the plaster in the bathroom above the shower walls or the walls of the next room.
I really appreciate all the comments I've received so far. They are very helpful. I hope this makes sense to someone.
With something that tight, make sure not to forget the nail stopper plates.