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PT, shave some off the drops.
I got the PT (pressure treated) part, but you lost me on shave some off the drops? Scraps?Thanks
bingo!
Steel. I put steel shims under every bearing point and each stud. I then fill the sole plate gap with foam or caulk or glue. Back in MI, wood shims would not pass an inspection and steel shims are very easy to come by.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Edited 8/5/2008 9:32 am by Jim_Allen
Jim, where do you get steel shims? I've asked our guys to use them, and asked our lumberyards to supply them, and everyone looks at me crosseyed and says to just use cedar shims.
In MI, we build basements everywhere. So, there are steel beams shipped for every basement. Along with each beam is a stack of steel shims. Most McMansions get a five gallon bucket half full delivered with the beams. When the steel stanchions are delivered, they leave another half bucket. We always kept an ample supply of these extra steel shims and there was always some getting bulldozed into the backfill. Here in TX, it's a different story. Steel shims are hard to come by. I really can't help you find any other than to tell you to check with I-Beam suppliers.I used to work in a steel supply company and we took delivery of steel shims in 55 gallon drums. But remember...we were located in Detroit where there were thousands of machine shops. Most of the stuff we used was scrap that was cut into recycled shimstock. I used to work for this guys brother in law: http://www.smedeson.com/ Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
How did you deal with ACQ and the steel?
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
ACQ wasn't an issue when I framed but at this point I'd probably make sure the foam (always present) was between the steel and acq. The areas that we shimmed in were dry, so I don't know if the corrosion is really that big of an issue. What do you think? Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I think using steel shims is an idea I have no experience with which is why I asked the question. I would have either cut the studs to the correct height from the very beginning or used non shrink grout to fill under the plate and be done with the issue a long time ago. I prefer my sole plates have continuous bearing and contact with the slab.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
In MI, most of our foundation work was topped with masonry blockwork. The issue of out of level slabs was non-existent. Occassionally, we'd get a block wall that was done by a blind man and it would have a few voids in it. The voids would expose themselves when we set our perfectly rectangular, fully sheathed walls. All of our walls were anchored with simpson wall straps and they don't have any pulling power. So, good practice called for shimming the low spots. On our worst walls, we'd have to put shims in one or two spots. They might be a quarter inch thick total. It was really never a major issue other than if we shimmed it with wood, the inspectors would write it up and demand steel. Most of those situations were on the attached garage walls. The blockwork was typcially one course of 8" tall block. That put the plate 8" above grade. Technically speaking, we really didn't even need treated plates but try to get a BI to undertand that....you'd win a few milkbones. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I like the quote on your guy's website:
A customer is the most important visitor on our premises. He is not dependent on us. We are dependent on him. He is not an interruption in our work. He is the purpose of it. He is not an outsider in our business. He is part of it. We are not doing him a favor by serving him. He is doing us a favor by giving us an opportunity to do so.
-Gandhi
Here in Maine we mostly do full basements too, and while not every house has steel beams we've had some with as many as 13 of them. I asked the steel supplier once to send steel shims with the beams. "Steel shims? What's that?". Nevermind.
Regional differences never cease to amaze me....
Here in TX, it's a different story. Steel shims are hard to come by. I really can't help you find any other than to tell you to check with I-Beam suppliers.
Well, steel building practice here uses the 3000# nylon shim packs to spot columns to exact height until the N/S grout goes in.
Sheplers carries them. About $5 the bag in colored increments of thickness.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Sheplers? Where is this?
"It is what it is."
Sheplers? Where is this?
Dunno if they serve the Chicagoland area. They are a building & rebar supply outfit over much of Texas.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Thanks for that tip. I'll contact sheplers....wherever that is. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I'll contact sheplers....wherever that is
Shepler's Supply, not Shepler's Western Wear <g> (though you might try the latter <g>)
One in Round Rock right on 35; another in Pflugerville south of town a tad (IIRC).
One of those has a rebar shop where you can get bar bent to spec and site delivered, too. More of a heavy construction supply, if a tad light on nuts & bolts for red iron fab (Ace or Acme--CRS--Bolt supply on MoPac for nuts, bolts & washers to engineer specs fro steel frames)Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Found it.http://www.sheplersferry.com/..I remember riding that ferry when I was serving my carpentry apprenticeship. We built a mall on Mackinaw Island. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Found it: http://www.sheplers.com/
I can order some cowboy boots and hats there too! Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Maybe this one,http://www.tilt-up.org/tca/sustainingmembers/sheplers.htm
Yes..that's the one. They even have shims listed in their product guide on the front page!!!!! Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Or this one.http://www.merchantcircle.com/business/Symons.Sheplers.303-287-7531
Found another one
http://local.sanmarcosrecord.com/Sheplers.262133.16179533.home.html
How come your not nailing the sill down and cutting the studs to fit? It's such a simple solution and not one shim used.
I'll race your "simple" solution any day. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Go for it.......;-)
Joe Carola
Okay, but we gotta wager at least one milkbone for our troubles. We'll let Blownfuel pay the debt. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
We'll let Blownfuel pay the debt.
Sounds good, but are we screwing or nailing the studs..............;-)
Joe Carola
Even if I screw...I'm gonna pound them. One time a client got mad at me for pounding screws into his drwyall. I had ran out of drywall nails and was just pounding in the screws. I told them they were "screwshank" nails. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Well Joe I have this one corner of my new slab that must have been finished right about beer:30 or so because where my sole plate sits it is sloped to one side. My sole plate runs along nice and flat and in full contact with the slab and then I get to this corner and only half of the plate is now in contact with the slab. I guess I could cut a wedge of sorts and place it under or maybe use some type of grout?
Nail it down tight. If it doesn't bend, put a slice on the bottom of the sill and it will bend and sit nice and flat to the slab....bing.....bang...........bome..........done!!
Joe Carola
Then the top plate is bowed and dipped and unstraight!!!!????? Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Then the top plate is bowed and dipped and unstraight!!!!?????
No it's not. Cut studs to fit to straight top plate.
Joe Carola
I told them they were "screwshank" nails.
Those are great and you can take them back for a refund if you don't use them all - you know, the Screwshank Redemption ....
Jeff