Have seen a number of FHB articles that have suggested the use of adding solid backing when hanging crown ( especially when running parallel to joists. The crew that I used to work for, that is what we did odd time that we did a crown job. recently I was talking to trim carp buddy of mine who says that’s a waste of time, and cross nailing is all you need to do.
when I was at the JLC show I asked Garry Katz if he puts up blocking and he said no – cross nail.
so now I am in a quandry, I had learned that the best way to do it was to use solid backing. now I am being told I was wrong…..so what’s the deal.
Replies
Hey guy, you were at the JLClive & did not check out the Gameworks "meet & greet"? It would have been such a pleasure to meet you.
I did not know GK does not advocate backers. Did he give a reason? Maybe he just nails the blazes out of the wood. Why not ask him on his website?
Quality repairs for your home.
AaronR Construction
Vancouver, Canada
Edited 11/11/2006 10:58 pm by AaronRosenthal
yeah I missed it...I wasn't following the preconference thread I found out after about the meet.
touched on it in my other thread.
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=81340.4
how did you like the show, have you been before? I definately want to go again next year.
Best way is to use solid backing. Those of us for whom time is money have found that, at least for simple one- or two-piece crowns, caulking and crossnailing is adequate. It is nice to have solid backing up there though.
Running some 2X4 scraps thru the table saw and then putting on a little glue and slapping them about every two feet, nailed to the top plates is hardly a lot more work than cross nailing.
Cross nailing may be ok, but on a high end job, or any job with your name on it, wouldn't you rather have the blocks.
Another trick is to get 16d finish nails. After all the crown is run, drill a pilot hole and drive one in at about every two feet at an angle so it catches the top plate.
Don't sinkers hold better than finish nails?Friends help you move.
Real friends help you move bodies!
Yeah, but it's a bitch to hide that big cross hatch pattern head. Probably double the amount of painters putty.
You can put up a backer if you want but there is no reason to do so. There can be a few instances where one is needed or helpful. Top of cabinets and areas with a lot of transitions where a consistent angle is needed. I can't imagine going through a whole house placing a backer, it's double the work. Who is going to pay for that waste of time? Guys who do it every day would laugh at the suggestion. It's usually not necessary to nail the top into the ceiling with most standard crowns. The nailing face on crowns automatically pulls the molding tight, both top and bottom. After 6" in width you may want to cross nail in a few places.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
It depends upon the size of the crown. If it's 5" or bigger I always throw in a block every 2' or so simply because of the weight of the crown. Cross nailing cannot pull a heavier crown up into place and keep it there, in fact I will often use a trim head screw with the block. Too many times I have seen that seam open up between the cieling and wall with heavier crown. If the crown is 4" or smaller I usually just cross nail on the top every 16". So much of the crown you get anymore is very flimsy and light. Prefinished or prestained crown I always use blocks all the way around to cut down on the # of nail holes.
With floating crowns, I always drop in glue blocks even if it's only smaller stuff. Again I have seen too many installations where they didn't use glue blocks and the crown is weakened and subject to waving out of a straight line over time.
There are always different factors with crown installations, how straight the cieling and wall are, layered crown, corners that aren't 90 deg etc etc.
Your question is a good one. I have timed it and found that throwing in a few nail blocks takes very little time away from an installation and I go away feeling better about the job.
Some of it depends on the size of the crown.
Gary Katz is the same guy that advocates not using shims in split jambs as well!
Katz talks a lot about production style trim work, thats fine on trac-homes but in higher end houses it doesnt cut it.
Doug
at the show he did claim himself as a production carpenter.....
he also bent hinges on doors to better align the jamb reveal.
he also bent hinges on doors to better align the jamb reveal.
I'm guilty of that myself.
I believe at times it is necessary to add blocking and at others it would be a waste of time. Advocating one way is the only way isn't appropriate. If you're installing 3-4" single piece crown moulding then installing blocking would be a huge waste of time. If you're installing a 5 pc built up crown moulding then no blocking would be a mistake.
Use your best judgement.
Others have said it already....I'll just concur.
It mainly depends on the job itself. Small paint grade crown.....not likely I'll take the time to install backing. Large or built up crown....be silly not to spend the extra time.
Also....a another mentioned....Katz has advocated hanging doors without using shims. While I admire much of the work he displays in various issues, his will never be the final word as far as I'm concerned.
FREE SPONGE BOB,SANCHO PANTS!
If you want to work like a professional then put in the backing.
If you want to work like a hack then leave it out. I put in the backing, but then I'm funny that way.
P. S.
After reading the rest of the thread I realized that it does depend on your situation. Putting up 3-4" crown probably doesn't warrant backing. Use your own judgement.
Edited 11/12/2006 1:48 pm ET by ubc
so you would put up backing to run 3" colonial crown?