I love my Fein Multimaster. It cuts where no other saw can cut. I don’t love spending $60 plus every time I trash a blade. Today, I needed to cut away some work I managed to screw up when I remembered… I had no good blades. I took the best of the old blades, heated it to cherry red with a propane torch, then used a new triangle file to reshape and sharpen the teeth. Another application of heat to cherry red and a quick dunk in water retempered the steel and I was back in business with only 10 minutes of down time. Wish I had though of this years (and $$$) ago. I did discover that heat treating with the blade clamped in a machinist vise kept it from warping. Hope this helps someone. (Always wear safety glasses when doing this!)
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Hey thats pretty cool, did you see the one where
Luka did a detailed explanation for homemade replacements?
Here's the link:
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=66253.10
You'll probably just want to go with the cheaper ones on ebay, but here is a couple alternatives...
1. Sharpen what you have, using a dremel with a very thin cutoff blade.
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This dremel has a stone in it, but you get the idea. I have some super thin cutoff blades that would easily put teeth back on, or sharpen even the finest of teeth on those tiny saws.
2. Make your own...
Start with the blade that you screwed the teeth up on...
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Cut off the blade, from the flange.
(If yours does not have that flange, just cut the blade off in that general area, and thereby create the flange.)
And drill or punch some holes in the flange.
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Now decide on a blade.
* A hobby razor saw blade...
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(Fits an exacto hobby knife handle. The big red handle.)
Hobby
This page has several different options for the blade. 30, 40 and 52 teeth/inch.
* Or a japanese pull saw replacement blade...
japanwoodworker
You can use any blade on this page, or any other, for that matter. Nothing says you can't use a thicker blade...
Cut a section out of the blade, and drill the holes to correspond with the holes in the flange.
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Then simply rivet the two together.
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The beauty of the last step is that you don't really have to drill or punch holes in the blade. If you cut slots instead, it will still work.
That dremel with the very thin cutoff blade will do ALL the cutting, sharpening, or slot cutting. And will do so without removing temper, if yer careful.
Or, skip the holes/slots and either spot weld the blade to the flange, or silver solder it.
I keep thinking that I need to figure out some variation of this that can be attached to a "mouse" sander, or something similar.
You can end up with 3 or more blades from a blade that costs from 3 dollars to 20 dollars, depending on the blade you choose to cut your replacement from.
The first one would be the slowest. After that it shouldn't take you more than ten or 15 minutes to make a replacement blade.
(I should submit this as a "tips and techniques" submission...)
Edited 4/3/2007 9:35 pm by gordsco
>>> (I should submit this as a "tips and techniques" submission...)
Yeah, good idea. That will rile up the folks at Fein and force them to lower their price now that they have competition.
BTW, how come I see Gordsco as ther author? Is that you Luka? You look different.
A simple paste and post on my part, Luka gets all the credit for a beautifully detailed explanation .
Gord