I had to drill some 7/8″ holes in some 2″ sq steel tube.. had to use my huge 3/4″ Milwaukee drill… no way it wasn’t going to hangup and try to hurt me…
my plumber showed me how to drill with a taunt cord… as soon as it hangs up and tries to hurt me it unplugs itself… run the cord tight pluged into an extention in a way that if the handle twist it yanks the cords apart… simple smart and amazing how fast it yanks the cord apart… has to be faster than try’n to let go of the trigger by 10 fold… in 8 holes yanked apart 4 times and i was be’n very careful and aware…
just thought i’d pass it on
p
Replies
PT,
Sounds like a knuclke buster and wrist breaker. I needed a ss side panel for a dish washer years ago and the tin beater I went to explained that when you drill metal, start with an undersized hole and work your way up.
Chuck S
live, work, build, ...better with wood
LOL i was out in the shop/warehouse and i was fab'n up some outriggers for an air lift... (seems the factory ones a guy who use to work for me sold for alum scrap... ) and i wanted to get it done NOW... i had 2 new 7/8" bits and the drill .... yep start'n small and work'n up is always best... but..... this took a total of 15min... 30 min total cut'n weld'n & drill'n 4 outriggers...
at memfest this thing can act as a joy ride... pretty cool deal works on c02 and goes up 40ft while you stand on top of it in a 28"-30" sq platform... i left it sit'n outside for 4-5 yrs so it's not a super smooth ride up or down.... yet... a few more trips up & down and a little more lube might smooth it out some... but man what a killer dear stand it'd make...
had to fix it before i started hang'n the 4 walls inside the stairwell to the roof deck that are 40ft...
p
PT
You have not posted any pics lately. I was/am looking foreward to the on site stair fabrication I used to live near Washingon D.C. And know all about egress, deliveries, parking, inspections,etc. We had two inspectors in DC namd "Crook" and "Outlaw"Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
I read that and I thought- doesn't ponytl have a mag drill? Y'know, a electromagnetic drill with toothed annular cutters?
It's definitely a safer way to drill that steel- those hole hawgs carry some momentum even when the plug is pulled or the trigger released.
zak
"When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin
"so it goes"
Slick trick. If only the drill stopped turning when the power was cut.
I worked with a guy years ago, we were drilling out these heavy steel window frames 5 sections of staging up the outside of a university engineering building. Had these old Black & Decker steel cased drills that would just keep spinning after catching a burr. Threw me pretty good a couple of times, which was why I carried up the extra planks and tied some ropes so I'd have something to grab in case it tossed me off. I remember eating alot of Rolaids.
Ted, the guy I worked with didn't have that problem. Ted was solid and about 280 lbs.(which was another reason for the extra planks) Ted would catch a burr and just twitch a little. The bit would snap or the drill would. Either way Ted didn't move. He sent 5 drills back to the shop that summer.
May neighbors respect You, and troubles neglect You.
Gord
If you find yourself in this situation often, you might want to consider purchasing a drill press. Even a tabletop model.
FREE SPONGE BOB,SANCHO PANTS!
There is a trick my grandpa taught me when using his B&D 3/4" drill which he learned in the Navy. Tie a heavy rope to the side handle of the drill and then taut 90 degrees to an object nearby, the closer the better, so all you have to do is hold the drill upright and rope keeps it from twisting around. When you hit a bur the drill will jerk a little and then keep going and you don't risk breaking your wrist. They still use this trick with air drills running 2" bits in shipyards, or so I've been told.
-Day