Replies

1. 
   DanH | Nov 16, 2006 10:18pm | #1

   Be sure to use invisible screws.

   The main thing is to get it right the first time. You can fudge regular hinges a bit, but not so the Soss hinges.

   People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck
1. 
   walnutman | Nov 16, 2006 10:26pm | #2

   lol

   would you prehang the door on the jamb, or install the jamb plumb, square and level...and then install the doors??

    

1. 
   DanH | Nov 16, 2006 10:48pm | #6

   I used them on a cabinet door, so hard to compare.But I'd think it would be a lot easier to mortise the jamb before you put it up. Getting the mortises right is a bit more of a challenge than with standard hinges, since you have to cut deeper, and can't use standard hinge mortising hardware (at least not without modification).It's probably a good idea, if you can figure out how, to lay the door and jamb side by side, so you can mark across both for hinge locations, vs measuring.I assume these are the oval style? You'll want a Forstner bit of the appropriate size for the ends of the mortises. Or else use a routing jig, if you can find one for the size hinge you're using.

   People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck

2. 
   Sphere | Nov 16, 2006 10:26pm | #3

   How heavy are these doors? How big are the hinges?

   I don't recall seeing them available in a large enough size for say passage size doors.

   Mortice carefully, and mabey wanna use longer screws on the jambs, into the jack stud.

   Excellent hinges for cabinetry and such, but if you mean large , solid core doors..i'd have to see the size/rating of the hinges.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Shooting rubber bands at the Moon

1. 
   walnutman | Nov 16, 2006 10:29pm | #4

   these are big hinges, rated for heavy doors.  the mortise is 1-1/4" x 1-1/2" deep

1. 
   Sphere | Nov 16, 2006 10:37pm | #5

   Cool, I never saw them tha size.

   I'd set the jambs , then drill out the mortice, clean up with a router or chisel.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Shooting rubber bands at the Moon

3. 
   doorboy | Nov 16, 2006 11:55pm | #7

   The SOSS 218 is what I would use on a door that is roughly 3/0 x 7/0, and there's two bits of critical information that I can give you:
   1) Stick to the recommended spacing--in other words, 2 near the top and one near the bottom, and
   2) pay VERY close attention to the "fold line" on the paper template provided by SOSS. This will place the hinge mortise slightly off-center on the edge of the door. But it's necessary to avoid binding against the stop on the door jamb.

   If you're inclined to do so, invest in the router template that SOSS makes to aid your installation.

4. 
   BUIC | Nov 17, 2006 12:17am | #8

     1. If you don't buy a router template, make one.

     2. Mock up the door edge and jamb with some scrapes and do a trial run or two.

     3.Follow doorboys' advice.

     4. Hang door and jamb as a unit. Since you can't adjust or throw the hinges, it's the only chance you'll have to tweak the fit (margins) between the door and the jamb.

     A little patience and a careful layout will go a long way.

     Repeat as needed "I ain't scared of no puny hinge!"<g>

       Buic

5. 
   reinvent | Nov 17, 2006 02:09am | #9

   If you can't find the info in this link you need a new profession.

   http://www.soss.com/pdf/SossCatalog2006.pdf#page=4

6. 
   SkillSaw | Nov 17, 2006 06:33am | #10

   If you did not purchase the doors yet, try to use a 1 3/4" door as opposed to 1 3/8".  The soss hinge (big size) usually end up super close to the trim edge of the jamb on a 1 3/8" door.  With the thicker door, there's usually a bit more meat to bite into on the jamb.  The hinge also goes into the jamb much deeper than you may imagine, so it is good to have your jack stud close to the jamb to accept some of the hinge (bear some of the load)

   Enjoy!! PS - a nice forstner bit should do you fine & make sure you follow the template carefully along the dotted line (door stop)

   -Erik

7. 
   jrnbj | Nov 18, 2006 04:37am | #11

   Lot's of good advice from the other replies....

   I did a storefront of mahogany full-light slabs Soss'd together into trifold panels some years back....with as many doors as we did it was worth getting the Soss router template....maybe posting again here or at Knots or JLC would turn one up for you....takes a healthy plunge router & a good straight bit maybe 2" deep

   The meat of the hinges would hit traditional door jack & king stud layout clearances.....I can't remember if we routed the jamb side(s) in place or not, but for a single door I'd feel ok doing all my layout on the bench, cutting the jamb mortise with the paper template, then laying the jamb leg up against the framing, marking where the hinge "knuckles" hit the framing, hogging out the framing at the marks, and then, assemble the jamb, tack in place, hang the door, and then the final shim & adjusting...

   I can't remember if the door-to-jamb clearances & bevel differ from regular doors; the posted link to Soss probably can tell you...

   I'd be wanting to use good 5/4 CWP jamb stock, and maybe go a bit deeper than usual on the dado (or rabbit) for the jamb head, just to give myself a bit more fudge factor in the final fitting (nail the head to the legs with finish nails & you can tap it open a bit if need be..the trim will hide the gap.....'course, if you're working to existing RO's, you're stuck with what you've got...

   all in all, it's not a big deal...(or, as my boss used to say, "piece of cake...are you done yet")