Replies

1. 
   Hudson Valley Carpenter | Jul 26, 2008 01:40pm | #1

   I went to a drywall supplier, looking for sound absorbing products.  They had three.  One of them was a specific type of drywall which was rather expensive.  Another was an inexpensive fiberboard product, meant to be installed behind regular drywall.  The third was 1/4" drywall, also meant to be appllied prior to hanging the usual sheetrock.

   I chose the fiberboard for my project.  I used it on both sides of the wall, under the sheetrock.  It was quite effective, eliminating about 3/4 of the volume being produced inside.

2. 
   MNMike | Jul 26, 2008 04:01pm | #2

   Lou - while Breaktime is great, for home theater construction, you should really check out avsforum.com.  There is a special forum dedicated to nothing but home thater room construction - lots of actual experts on soundproofing, gear, etc.  VERY helpful forum for some of the more specific technical stuff.

   But Breaktime is still pretty bitchin'.

1. 
   Hudson Valley Carpenter | Jul 26, 2008 06:04pm | #3

   That's a great resource, Mike.  Thanks. 

   FYI, you can type in any complete URL and this board's software with turn it into a link.  Makes it that much easier to investigate.

1. 
   MNMike | Jul 26, 2008 08:48pm | #4

   My bad...

   Clicky:

   http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=3/

3. 
   JeffinPA | Jul 27, 2008 02:56am | #5

   I dont know what Isolation clips are but what about resilient channel or rc channel.

   It is a metal channel that goes on the stud.  The rock is then screwed to the resilient channel and the rock actually wil flex, thereby absorbing the sound.

   Used on partywalls and some commercial applications.

   I use it in basement theatres and sound rooms for clients and am batting 1000 on performance satisfaction from clients.  (i use insulation as well

1. 
   fingersandtoes | Jul 27, 2008 06:44am | #7

   Google them and you will see why they are being used a lot now.

   If you mount the sound isolation clips on the resilient channel you get very good results. Coupled with several layers of drywall on one side, a double stud wall insulated with mineral wool batts, and a close attention to openings and joints, you get a wall no one will complain about.

4. 
   ponytl | Jul 27, 2008 05:39am | #6

   from my posts you'd think i had stock in the co...

   but i just used the blown in cellulose (water activated) in 6" stud walls 24" on center...  hung the drywall on one side first.... used all the drywall scrap glued to the backside of the hung drywall to add some mass... used the light test... light on one side darl on the other and sealed every place we saw light... then they sprayed the cellulose.... let it dry for a few weeks then hung the other side......  it's pretty dead quite between units...... if you double framed where there would be no solid transmission of sound... you'd then have some 8" of blown cellulose and i'm sure a very quite room... if you can give up the space...  no expert but dollar for dollar i think i did as well as i could....

   keep us posted on what you do

   p

5. 
   Dinosaur | Jul 27, 2008 08:25am | #8

   Lou,

   If you really want to soundproof it, you'll have to build a 'room-within-a-room'--the way a recording studio is constructed. The inner room is framed on big rubber-coated structural beams which sit on four rubber anti-shock blocks that sit on the floor of the outer room. No other part of the inner room touches anything connected to the outside.

   Inner side of the outer room and outer side of the inner room are faced with 6-8" of rock-wool. No gyprock, furring, or V-B is put on to cover the wool in the 'tween-space. The wool overlaying the studs is held in place by netting. The 'tween-space should be a minimum of 12-18" between faces.

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
   low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
   foolish men call Justice....
   

   

6. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Jul 27, 2008 08:39am | #9

   QuietRock - http://www.quietsolution.com/html/quietrock.html I have some in my house.

   Jeff

7. 
   5brown1 | Jul 27, 2008 04:00pm | #10

   Has anyone tried spray-in-foam insulation for sound reduction.
   I was in a 4-plex where the contractor was applying form to the flooring below the 2nd story. I have been going to call him about another matter but will ask how that worked out.
   I have a friend who has foamed the walls of his house and has commented on how quiet it is.
   Foam would seem like a natural fix for sound by eliminating all holes and providing density at the same time.

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Jul 27, 2008 09:39pm | #11

   You always have to keep in mind what you are trying to do:- For sound reduction between rooms you want MASS and no gaps.   That's why QuietRock works so well - it's heavy.   That's why masonry works well.   That's why fiberglass insulation doesn't do much.

   - For sound absorption to keep a space from being too echoey (reduction reverberation time) foam and soft squishy things (carpet, upholstery) help.

   Jeff

2. 
   ponytl | Jul 28, 2008 01:06am | #12

   spray in foam is better than fiberglass... the main thing you get from foam is... it seals all the holes & gaps... which is HUGE  but as a sound proofing it's not that great... wool batts are and i think blown in cellulose is better...

   this has been addressed her more than a few times so you might want to do a search... lots of good ideas...... in the end... it's all the small stuff you do that really makes it work...

   p