So I’m almost finished retrofitting a 2×6 wall (for DWV) pipe on a 2×4 wall with plaster behind when…I notice the bottom plate is splitting vertically…. This used to be a doorway, so I can see the splits on the ends of the bottom plate either side of the ex-doorway. On one side, the split has moved all the way up the height of the plate…
So before I do something only a DIY-er would think of, what next? There are 3 studs sitting on the bottom plate either side of the ex-doorway (original 2×4, flanked by 2×6 king stud and 2×6 trimmer stud for header that will carry weight of big medicine cabinet). That doesn’t leave much room for tie plates etc. Things I can think of:
– 1/4″ carriage bolt inserted horizontally to hold the bottom plate together…how safe is it to drill a 1/4″ hole in a splitting plate?
– hammer a Simpson mending plate onto the end of the plate….I swore I’d never do this again after the last time I banged one of these things in, but tie plates are too big…..
– ignore it
Possible reason for split: 75-year old house, bottom plates were put down on T&G floor boards over joists. When framing carpenter replaced some joists and put in a joist for flooring at this end of the room, he cut away some of the floor boards under the bottom plate. Not much I can do, there is about 2″ space between new and old joists with plate hanging over that gap, and I cannot get into it….. Eventually new T&G floor will (hopefully) slide under new 2×6 studs and provide some extra support….
Replies
This is just the bottom plate of an interior partition wall? And the plate has a vertical split? Fugedaboutit!
Maybe inject some glue then fugedaboudid. .............Rik...........
Ok, thanks all for the reassurance. FWIW the top plate is *not* attached to the ceiling joists, looks like it's nailed to beam at the side, that and support from studs appears to be all that's holding it up....
If you can get some construction adhesive in there, force it in and then clamp it with a heavy duty clamp to pull the crack together.
Aliphatic resin glue, like Titebond, will go into the crack easier. Leave it clamped overnight, and you have a much better repair than you really need.
-- J.S.
Open the crack a "fuzz" or as much as you dare and squeeze in yur glue... Apply vacuum to the back side of the slpit if you can... this method will even pull warmed PL Premium into a crack....
Close the split...
Clearence pre-drill up to the split in the of plate and use a long deck screw to mechanical the the plate together... These screws come in 6" lenghts...
Drill a couple of holes in the plate and poor in some soupy Rock Hard putty....
Fill the drilled holes too... 3/4 - 1" holes is more than enough..
vigorously ap on the plate while pouring in the Rock Hard...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Thanks, last night I dolloped glue in as best I could (PL400, probably shallow), clamped the split closed (glue was squeezed out :-)) and banged on a small mending plate while I left the glue to cure. I may try your idea of Rock Hard, or I may just declare victory and leave it....
In answer to someone else's question, it's I think 1-5/8" (old dimensional lumber size I guess)....
How thick of a "bottom plate" are you squawking about; a 1- 1/2"...or a double 3" ?
Ignore it.
the bottom plate is basically being held tight to the deck by gravity, along with the weight of the wall. If there is 3/4" gap UNDER the plate, then shim it.
blue