So I just read a FHB article by Jon Tobey (‘Spray Everything’) in which he describes how he gave up on rollers and brushes, and sprays everything all the time.
He sprays the trim, masks the trim, sprays the walls, masks the walls, then sprays the ceiling. That’s a lot of masking.
I don’t think I’d ever contemplate renting a sprayer to follow his approach, but does anyone actually do this? My understanding is that new houses may or may not be sprayed, but my experience is in remodeling, and I’ve never seen an interior get sprayed.
I imagine touch-ups would not work well.
Replies
I'm no pro but pretend I am one when watching TV.
When I've seen the whole-room spraying, it's a two-person job. One sprays, the other comes in with a roller to give it the texture that a regular rolled on job would give...which I assume would make the touch ups easier/less noticeable.
I installed wainscot, custom window casing and base for a customer whose painter then sprayed it all. The result is a great paint job without roller or brush marks, something that is impossible to do any other way nowadays.
You haven't watched a good painter and their masking equipment. Masking is probably only 5% of painting time on most of our remodels.
In 30 minutes a guy can re-mask 400 sqft of ceiling and have a new color sprayed.
If you spray it's important that you get good masking equipment.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Don are they masking the ceiling and spraying the walls? Or, are they masking the walls and spraying the ceiling? Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Normally you would do your ceiling first, mask the ceilings and paint the walls.depends on the ceiling texture, it's harder to tape a straight line on, say, popcorn. I prefer to paint the ceilings, cut in the ceiling/wall line with a brush 2 or 3 inches and then spray and backroll. It also depends on the size of the job, sometimes it's just faster to brush and roll
Barry E-Remodeler
I'm late in this reply, but they spray from the easiest to hardest to mask. Spray trim, mask trim and spray wall, mask wall and spray ceiling. If there is crown the wall is painted, then the crown, then the ceiling.
Another trick to making these areas easy to mask is to ensure the surfaces aren't too rough. Also, if you mask over the trim, spray a sealer coat of trim color to block further paint from bleeding onto the trim. Same for the rest. The paint still bleeds under the tape, but it's the correct color this way.
Cheers!
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Good tip.I was considering this:run a 12" masking paper along the primed walls at the bottom. Install the trim over the paper. Spray the trim. Untape the paper and let it flop down onto the floor. Spray and back roll the walls. Cut paper loose with knife. Oops...now I'd have to caulk and cut anyways. Is there a solution? Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Is there a solution?
As far as I know, how the process was described is as close to a solution as the painting industry has and it works well. If there was something better we'd all be doing it.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
When building new homes - and now more for additions etc, I spray everything but the last coat on the walls.
Primer on all dwall.
First coat paint on walls.
Paint on ceilings.
Install trim. (pre - sprayed )
Spray trim.
Hand paint walls at very end of project.
YMMV.
Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
Do you backroll the walls and ceilings as you spray them? Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Yep.Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
One thing I learned the hard way is that after spraying but not following up with rolling on my rentals is that touch up paint (even out of the same bucket) would not match.
I still have trouble believing that.
I expect that there are a few factors at work, that may not be appreciated by the casual reader. BTW, I am not a pro painter, but I have had ample opportunity to see the pros at work ...
First of all, modern professional sprayers give a surprising amount of control, with little overspray or dusting. We're not talking about the $40 box store specials, or something you hook up to your air compressor.
A spray coat may use double the amount of paint of a roller, but the coverage is absolutely even. There is little need for touch ups.
Textured surfaces seem to be fashionable these days, and a sprayer beats a roller in these situations.
I hate textured surfaces. . . a lot.Anyways: neat. I'd love to see a pro using one.
There are LOTS of different preferences on this subject. For me, on new construction:
Spray primer on walls, (preferably tinted with finish color) then backroll with mostly dry roller for texture.
Spray cieling , being carefull to cover the area at the edges well, ( this leaves overspray at tops of walls to be taken care of later)
Then install pre-primed trim
Then spray trim (this will leave overspray on walls)
Last step is to roll finish coat on walls, cutting in to the trim and cieling.
We dont do much masking, usually only if finish floors like tile are already installed. Windows and exterior doors are misted with water in a spray bottle just prior to spraying paint, then just wiped down afterward
On remodeling, I'm too messy to even consider spraying
Neat!
Digging up a really old thread because it's related to the magazine article I'm interested in. I remember the article, but can't find the magazine (November, 2000, issue 134). Of course, I don't have on-line member access so I can't view it either. I'm going to be spraying the trim in my remodel project (unprimed Poplar) and I was wondering if they made any paint or paint technique recommendations in the article?
If I remember.........
I'll look it up and get back to you................clean up, take senior candy, eat dinner.............
1110
First nail fill-first "fill"-standar resin-based spackling compound-Sherwin Wms. Sand w/80 grit.
Final fill-skim coat w/3-M Red automotive putty. Sand w/120 grit.
vac and wipe down trim-rags moistened w/mineral spirits.
Clean the floors-dust will move with the spraying.
Priming-Fast drying Alkyd Primer. Scuff trim using med. grit scotch-brite pads (3-M) to knock down rough spots.
Vac and wipe down once again-caulk joints-acrylic latex caulk. wipe excess w/ damp cloth.
Temporaily lays masking paper on horizontal surfaces to prevent dryfall from collecting.
Paint-top - down. He uses a slow drying alkyd semi gloss-2 coats. Overlaps the wall
You want me to read more? or you got it.