Replies

1. 
   calvin | Sep 24, 2002 04:36am | #1

   You might try this.  A control line centered between the two long walls.  An understanding of the 6/8/10 rule for squaring off that line.  That gives you two control lines at 90 deg. to each other.  Check all around to see if unmovable things will screw up this layout (stairways, duct runs that need soffited, columns etc).  If no screwup, take some clear coating and spray the perfectly square chalklines to keep em nice till you're done and proceed with caution using a level and/or plumb bob and build those walls in relation to those control lines.  Or, as jeff buck would say: hire one of us to lay it out for you.  That jeff has a rye sense of humor.  Best of luck.

   __________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   UncleDunc | Sep 25, 2002 12:05am | #4

   >> That jeff has a rye sense of humor.

   How much rye do you have to drink to get a rye sense of humor?

1. 
   calvin | Sep 25, 2002 12:48am | #5

   Well I would think that as long as you wash it down with Iron City, you should be ok......at least that's jeff's motto.

   So how do you spell that rye that I was really meaning?   Alright, I'll get off my fat ... and go look.

   __________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

2. 
   RW | Sep 24, 2002 04:49am | #2

   Real common for basement floors to not be level. I've done several basements, and I usually lay out first with tape on the floor and check everything for some sense of squareness. Not that I use miles of tape - just marks and + signs at corners. Since we frame the exterior walls as well, the standout from the block can vary a little to help make up for out of square there. The CCA gets PL400 and Hilti shot to the floor, don't put glue where the door openings are going to be, and have them visibly marked first. Plumb bob up to the joists for straight at each end of a wall section, then stand a *straight*! stud up and double check it with a level. Mark the joists, and put in the top plate. Individual studs are cut to length and installed as you go. At doors, double check side to side that everything is square and the same distance apart so you dont get 38 at the bottom and 38 1/2" at the header. You should put your headers level with a level, and mark for them before the trimmers go in, so variations in the floor don't equal a crooked header. If you're running across the joists, direct nail the top plate to the joists. If you're running with them, we usually nail blocking between the joists on 16" centers and attch the plate to that. When you get ready to go, plan how to do your soffits ahead of time so they don't interfere with doors opening or headroom in a really inconvenient place. The length of your plumbing and HVAC runs in some cases changes where you want to put the walls. In areas where the floor really isn't level and need to be, there's a variety of products out there, like floor stone, which are commonly used to level out areas. Check the bag for compatibility with what you're putting it on. Lots of these not intended for wet areas, so under carpet but not necessarily a bathroom, and some also not solid enough if you're going to do ceramic in a bath. Everyone wants head room, which can be an issue depending on how old your house is. New homes around here automatically have 9 or 10' ceilings in the basement, but a lot of older homes have more like 7'. Drywalling the ceiling can be tempting, but two things to consider: code may require that you perforate the ceiling with an access panel everywhere a repairman might want to get - junctions in plumbing, cable, water, and that can look really haphazard. Lots of people say "Aww, but I really don't want a drop ceiling" until the first time something breaks and their drywall gets the sawzall treatment.

3. 
   Davo304 | Sep 24, 2002 10:30am | #3

    A lot of good info has already been given to you. Here's my 2 cents worth.

   If you have the room to build your walls and raise them up in place, then do so. It's faster than toenailing each stud one by one. Just make sure that your wall height is at least a 1/4 inch smaller than your floor to ceiling height. This (1/4) gap will allow you to raise your wall without too much trouble. Simply put a shim between wall plate and ceiling joist when nailing the wall off.

   Just remember...chalk your lines and ALWAYS nail down your bottom wall plates first.  Adjust both corners of your wall to be as plumb as possible in relation to your bottom plate position, and then  strecth out a stringline across the front of the top plate from corner to corner to adjust the middle of your wall so it will be plumbed in line with the two corners. As you're adjusting the wall, nail it off at the top as you proceed. 

   When building walls it's a good idea to sight down each stud and mark the crown side. I like to have my studs nailed with the crown side facing out. Keeping the studs all in line with the crowns all facing the same direction will help give your wall a better uniform appearance.  Check your studs for excessive protrusion by running a long level aginst them and or stretching another stringline horizontally across them at the mid point. Any studs too crooked or bowed should be cut and forced into position with the aid of a "sistered" stud; and/or cut out and replaced.

   When framing a 90 degree turn...set your framing square down on the floor, butting against your new wall where you want to turn the corner, and have a helper strike a a chalkline using the framing square as a guide for string placement. Once this line is down, then use the 3-4-5 method or 6-8-10 (if you have the room for it) to check and see just how close to square your chalkline mark really is. You may have to adjust and re-chalk. Good time to carry 2 chalk boxes, each with a different color, so you know which line mark is  the "good" one. Of course you can always scuff out the bad marking with your shoe.

   LOL.

   Davo