I’m planning to stain all of my new Andersen windows (some are maple, some are pine) with Superdeck 1905 Heart Redwood Stain. I’m also planning on staining douglas fir trim around the windows with Superdeck 2501 Exotic Hardwood Natural finish.
I want to avoid uneven bloching of the stain, and I was thinking of using Minwax Prestain wood conditioner under the Superdeck product.
I am using the Superdeck because I want the wood to be protected by the finish and not have an unnatural polyurethene coating on it.
Neither manufacturer will comment on combining their product with the other’s. Does anyone have any experience with the Minwax prestain product?
Thanks, Paul
Replies
I used it once on pine bi-fold doors. I was not impressed. Zinnser's Seal-coat clear, unwaxed shellac thinned 50/50 with denatured alcohol works much better.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"
Jed Clampitt
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Thanks for the tip. What is your procedure for using the Zinnsers and alcohol mix?
I've never used it, but read that the Minwax Pre-stain must not be allowed to sit for more than 2 hours before the stain goes on. It it the same with your mix?
I want to do it right the first time.
Thanks,
Paul
Just swab it on and let it dry. No time limits or anything fancy. And it's compatible w/everything.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Paul
We always use Minwax Prestain on Andersen windows.
Then we use a gel stain and dry brush it on. Then varnish or lacquer
Stains do not penentrate very well with the prestain.
That's why we do the gel stain and dry brush.
Without good pentration I wonder if this is a good plan.
Maybe that is why neither company will commit.
I am not familiar with the stain you want to use.
Try any of these methods on the back side of a piece of trim before commiting to a plan.
Rich
Rich,
Thanks. I'm looking for a wood stain and protectant system that soaks into the wood surface to make it water resistant, without the look of a coating that covers the wood with a film as varnish, lacquer, and polyurethane typically does.
It sounds like you use the gel stain because it allows you to build up color rather than soak it in.
I have one room in my house that has a hot tub and I need to make the wood as waterproof as I can, without the problem of future cracking and delamination that I have seen with finishes that sit on top of the wood.
I discovered the Superdeck product becaue it is a one-step finish that is on my exterior cedar shingles, and it has performed well so far. It is contains tung oil, linseed oil, and teak oil, and soaks into the wood to provide water and UV protection. It cannot chip, crack, scratch, or flake off. However, it is blochy if applied directly to maple, pine and fir.
I just spoke to a Zinsser factory rep, and he recommended a 3 part alcohol to 2 part seal coat shellac mix as a pre-stain. I guess I'm going to have to try it on a scrap piece to find out how it works.
Paul
Try posting in teh finishing section on Knots. The Knots link at the top of the page will take you there.