Refinishing an oak floor using WB poly… in spite of long discussions with the client, they aren’t happy with the color after the first coat. Anyone try wb stain OVER poly (which would then be topcoated with poly)? Don’t recall whether wb stains are penetrating or not… I know I can tint the next coat, but it might be more “reliable” to use an off the shelf stain between coats if it will work…
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Chances are slim it'll work. The next coat of poly will wet it and redistribute it all over. UNLESS it is Sprayed on over. Which no one does.
What you are proposing is a "Glaze" and that would normally go over a shellac or lacquer, then sealed in and finished over that sealer.
Now you'd have to scuff the poly fairly seriously, to get some tooth, use a heavy pigment stain ( like the goo in the can bottom) and wipe on, wipe off, then as carefully as you can, when fully dried, ROLL a sealer coat of thinned poly over it withoutdisturbing the layer of color. It's touchy, but can be done.
Then apply full coats of poly over that in the right time frame...
It's dicey.
Hmmm... hadn't thought about the rewetting issue... wonder if I could add WB stain to the poly as though it were tint (which I have used before). Sigh... I reallyyyyyyyyyyy don't want to resand this floor, especially since I have a feeling I'll be eating it. Is it too late for med school?PaulB
http://www.makeabettertomorrow.com
http://www.finecontracting.com
I avoid the "tinted poly" route like the plague, it never looks right. (to me) and lap marks, are hideously common, as are streaks.
I dunno, med school? What kind of Doctorate you after?
Have had good luck tinting poly actually but somehow I wonder if I'm gonna make a bad situation worse. And I'll take any kind of Doctorate that will wllow me to not have to go througgh this BS ;)PaulB
http://www.makeabettertomorrow.com
http://www.finecontracting.com
Sometimes it just sucks. But hey, you may get lucky.
I use w/b glazes between coats of w/b finish all the time. There is a limit as to how far you can shift, but if it's close, it's possible.
I use a ethylene-glycol base to which I add pigments, wipe on, wipe off, let dry 24 hours and recoat. A really good paint store may be able to make some up for you. If you get a funny look or offer to make an oil-base glaze, you have the wrong store.
that would be a mistake IMO.
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Yeah, I bagged that idea... we're in discussion as to the solution.PaulB
http://www.makeabettertomorrow.com
http://www.finecontracting.com
What is their specific objection to the colour after the first coat of poly? Too light? Too dark? Not rich enough? Not deep enough? Or just the wrong effin' colour?
A slight tinting of the poly for the next coat--and for succeeding coat(s) as necessary--could be the most practical solution if it's too light or not rich/deep enough. (If it's too dark or the wrong colour completely, you're gonna have to sand. But you knew that....)
I hope for your sake the client signed off on the colour chip for the stain you used; if not you probably will have to eat it. But assuming they did, there is no reason you should.
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