I am adding cabinets to the kitchen and trying to match the stain of the originals. I have tried several experiments on scraps and am getting frustrated. My wife says the color lacks “depth”. I have tried the traditional minwax oil stain for various lengths of soak time and they do all look flat.
Yesterday the local Ace guy steered me to Zar gel stain and it looks more promising. I have tried the following:
* Applying lightly with a rag and wipe off immediately
* Applying with a rag and vigorously rubbing in.
* Applying heavily with a foam brush and wiping after various ltimes from immediate to overnight (overnight gets too dry).
* Applying two different stains with adequate drying time between to get “depth”?
Looking for suggestions on how to apply, how hard to rub in, how long before removal of excess.
I am working with a birch plywood and #1 select pine
Thanx, john
Replies
You'd have to define "depth". Is that richer/ more color, or is it luster. Gel stains are meant to sit on top of a finish, like a glaze coat.
Also birch ply works well with solid birch or maple, not pine. Different altogether.
Thanx for the quick response. To answer your questions:"You'd have to define "depth". Is that richer/ more color, or is it luster."By depth I mean richer with more background color. The original cabinets have what I would call a dark walnut color with grain lines showing as yellowish."Gel stains are meant to sit on top of a finish, like a glaze coat."Does this mean they do not penetrate? That would not be goodpoppi
Check out the "Knots" forum - search for finishing tips. There's a lot of tips on using dyes and other finishes to make the wood pop.
What are you putting over the stain? The finish is what usually adds depth to finish, not the stain.
"What are you putting over the stain? The finish is what usually adds depth to finish, not the stain."I have always been a fan of paste wax finish, highly buffed. I don't like shellacs, varnish, or polypoppi
wax on kitchen cabinets???
Water stains are a problem.
How's about some pictures of the original? How and where are you using two different types of wood?
Forget the Minwax stuff. Not likely the original manufacturer used it.
Hard to say without seeing what you're trying to match. Is the finish to match commercially applied? Depth is usually visually increased with topcoat. Some people see higher sheen as "more depth".
Sometimes a base coat of dye followed by a pigmented stain can give depth.
As someone else pointed out. Birch and pine will stain quite differently... one a hardwood and the other softwood. A sprayed blend coat would help to conceal differences.
PJ
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
Try some Sherwin-Williams stains. IMHO, they have better saturation. Try a lighter stain, wipe on and let it penetrate for 10 minutes, wipe off. Let dry. Wipe on a darker stain, let it almost dry, then wipe off. Use 4-0 steel wool to rub the high spots off and expose the lighter under-stain. Get a spray can of Deft lacquer and shoot 3-4 coats with 15 minutes between applications. That'll give you a finished look to check the depth. Use the wool before the 3rd coat to remove nibs.
Pine will splotch if you don't use a pre-stain treatment. Birch is a little better. Maple is best. Oak has a real open grain that will stand out. Try to get the same species as your origional cabs.
You really need to give some better info and pictures would really help.
Specifaically, were the older cabinets finished in placed as in tract production cabinets, or finished in a factory? This makes a difference. Also, is the wood the same species.
More info, better help...
Yes, the cabinets were finished in palce, probably 35 years ago. I haven't a clue as to teh species other than both the cabinets and the doors are plywood with a good top layer on both sides. We tried to match the grain by buying what HD called BIRCpoppi