I want to stain and seal a new concrete floor –but no one has info locally.
Is this something best left to the pros?
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No , I did mine , myself it is really easy. send my your email and I send you some pictures, cannot think of the concrete address i will post later tonight when I find them.
[email protected]
I will be very interested to find out how you did it yourself...
Our local paper did a big article on it -- how it was becoming so popular-- but inferred that it was best left to professionals. Online search for info seemed to confirm this. And this too: it seemed like the stain was very expensive as compared to other kinds of stain (wood, etc.). If I could be so presumptive to ask, how much did yours cost per foot?? Thanks!
There's no reason at all why you can't do this yourself if you have good basic construction skills, a couple of willing helpers, an artistic bent, and all the right tools ready.
Just figure every time you do another project you're going to learn something new, and have fun.
If you're near a city, check with any concrete accessories supplier,usually you can get the acid-based stains there. Alternately, some paint stores sell some of the better-quality acrylic stains.
My only cautionary note would be start small and experiment a few times before tackling a larger job or one where the finish specs are critical. It's pretty easy to get the color on, not so easy to change it once you're done. <G>
DRC
I used 3 gallons on 1200 sq ft at $50 a gallon had some left over. All the so called concrete stains at lowesa and Hd is not stain it is paint. It will not work at all. I learn most of mine at http://www.acidstain.com It is really easy, a twelve year old could do it perfect. Just do not get picky about the color. color is determine by cement content of slab. Its figures 400 sq feet agallon at two coats. Mine was 1200 so I used two gallon of light tan and then finish with a deluted coat of black. My stain was Kemico http://www.kemiko.com
Edited 8/31/2002 2:07:16 PM ET by BROWNBAGG
Johnny, how is that floor holding up? Was it wet when you took this picture. or is that a wax or something finish? Any problems with anything since you finished it? Joe H
`that picture is with three coats of poly, Its concrete , holds up like concrete. The color is in the concrete not just laying on top, you can chip it and its still brown
Looks great, I'm going to try it in a garage I'm building and see if I can get the hang of it. Joe H
I would like to know how the poly holds up after a few years. Are you concerned about moisture migration lifting the poly?
Ditch
Brownbagg--
Your floor looks great. Could I bother you by asking how wide and deep the grooves are and how you cut them?
Regards,
Rework
moisture, vapor barrier under slab. Thats a code item around here
cut- 1/8 width on a two foot square using a circular saw and diamond blade from HD. I cut 1/4 inch deep but since that picture grouted with a black grout to keep the dirt out.
Floors look great! Grout sounds like a good idea, grooves would just eventually fill up with dirt. What was the dry time needed before applying the top-coats?
Ditch
not really a dry time because it was a chemical reaction with the lime in concrete. mainly dry time was when the clean up water was dry. I left mine a week , had to go back to work.
Here's a link to a "scrapbook" written by a woman who stained the concrete floors for a man-made stone house. I've linked you to the part on concrete staining-- the full site shows the complete building process. This lady learned as she went and tells about the both pitfalls and the payoffs.
http://www.scrapbookscrapbook.com/DAC-ART/concrete-acid-stain.html