Well, I’ve seen lots of great folks and great info here, and I’d like to ask a simple question or two. I’m planning on working on a stairway in a split level that is a real head knocker. It’s very narrow at the bottom, and headroom is under 6′ at one point. How it passed inspection, I’ll never know. It was built in the 50’s.
The issue is that there is a room above the stair area, and the work will impact that room in a negative way. I accept that but I’d like to minimize it as much as possible. I do have a no break distance of 50″ that the stair must fit into.
I’ll try to load a drawing here, and I’m sorry for it’s relative crudeness. I don’t have a better drawing program loaded on my new computer yet.
It is a “L” design, with the floor to floor measurement being 60″. The tread rise is 7.5″ and the run is 9″. The stair starts at the bottom with 5 straight steps, then turns 90 degrees left. The final two steps are wedge shaped, with the inside edge at 6″, ( 9″ at 12″ out from the inside). The fifth step is 36″ wide, and 36″ deep, but because the next two steps are wedge shaped, part of the 3′ square has been lost.
The questions are:
1: Are the basic dimensions of rise, run and width OK, and do they meet code as I believe they do?
2: I am concerned that the 5th step will be considered a landing and will not meet the code requirement of 36″ x 36″. Or that the inside is not 6″.
3: What size door must be used at the top of the stairs?
4: What headroom requirements must I meet? And from where to where? Is it 84″ from the nose of the tread measured vertically to the surface above?
5: I think I am clear on handrail requirements, but are there any traps to be aware of?
Finally, if I am incorrect on any of the above items, what suggestions might you have for a safe, code compliant, but compact stair?
Thankyou all so much for your time and contributions. I have (temorarily I hope) misplaced my code guide, and your help and advice is greatly appreciated.
Jake
Replies
The floor to floor is only 60 INCHES?
Your drawing shows nine risers at 7.5" which makes 67.5"
Is this a crawl space? Codes may not erven apply to something that is not dwelling space. ooops, I see - split level.
headroom required is 6'8" from toe of tread to header, finished space.
I think newest standard is max7.25" rise and ten inch run at travel space which we interpret as being 18" from wall.
Please wait for more discussion. These random thoughts from me are as I am falling asleep at the keyboard. Don't know what's coming over me tonight.
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Hey guy, do I feel for you!!!!!
Had a similiar problem with a house I bought just last summer. After many many many hours and days trying to figure out how to fit in a new staircase and bring it up to code I finally decided to leave it up to a pro. I was stubborn at first because I really wanted to do this on my own and also because I was on a strict budget but I finally broke down and went to the local millwork.
AND TO MY SUPRISE, I gave the guy my measurements and he figured out the stringers for me. I asked how much it would cost to cut the stringers and the cost was only $25.00 a stringer. Well worth it.
Check with your local millwork. In most cases they will figure out the solution for you if your buying the material from them.
Code guide? Jake you might want to checkout this document. It's the Visual
Interpretation Of The International Residential Code-2000 Stair Building Code
it doesn't apply everywhere but it's a good standard and it's a great document
in terms of it "understandability".
I think you'll ant to check out R314.3 Headroom. On page 5 and R314.4 Winders
on page 6.
You've got problems with this stair. The dimension you mention " 9"
at 12" out from the inside" doesn't cut it. You need 10". The
9" tread run is also short (see page 3 photo #5). I'm not sure what to
tell you as far as what you options might be because your floor plan doesn't
tell me enough to make any kind of recommendations as far as alternative solutions.
Can you photograph the conditions. Off the top of my head what I'm thinking
is you need to find a way to add a tread at the top. Is that at all possible?
Ultimately you'll really need to review this with your code offical because
with what you've got somewhere something isn't going to work out. A tough problem
you've got there
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Thanks guys....now we're getting somewhere!
That publication answered a ton of questions...Bingo!
I redesigned the staircase, and hopefullly I didn't mistakenly add a riser and tread! The new configuration does away with the right angle turn, and replaces it with a winding arrangement. It all fits the code requirements AND the space!
Now I just have to finalize the ceiling details and we're good to go.
Thanks again...
Jake
Slow down a little people. Too many misquoted code requirements. First of all the min. tread depth is 9". That means a 8" cut on the stringer with a 1" to 1 1/4" overhanging tread. Next, the winders must be at least 10" deep at the point 12" from the narrowest part of the winder. The narrowest part of that winder must be at least 6" deep which usually translates to 2 winders in a 90 turn. The max. riser height is 8 1/4". The code allows for a max deviation between consecutive steps of 3/16" and a max deviation of 3/8" on the stairs overall. Just for giggles, the hand rail height on an enclosed stair way is 32-38" high as measured from the leading edge of the tread and on an open satirway it is 34-38". Landing handrails must be 36" high. Max balluster spacing in MA is 5 1/4".
Good luck!