You guys have always been a great help when I’ve started these types of projects before, so I thought I’d drop a line to get started in the right direction…
I’m going to install a wood burning fireplace into our existing family room (approx. 25’x25′ with 15′ ceilings). I plan to frame out the entire thing and then probably have someone install one of the pre-fab fireplace boxes. I plan to finish the hearth, etc. with something like Cultured Stone. I’ve done a lot of the stone work before, so I am a little more comfortable in that area. However, what am I getting myself in to regarding the fireplace? My biggest questions/concerns are the following:
1) Water — I’m more than a little concerned about punching through the existing roof for the chimney pipe and ensuring it will remain watertight. Any techniques are appreciated.
2) Fireplace — I Don’t have a clue what to buy. We really need the heat in the Winter for that room, which argues for a wood-burning stove, but the Mrs. specifically wants a fireplace. Also, don’t know who a good manufacturer is. Don’t even know the right questions to ask. Are they really all the same as long as I buy comparable efficiency rated boxes (i.e. size, btus, etc.)?
Any resources (websites, books, magazines, etc.) you can point me to are greatly appreciated!
Again, thank you all for your previous help… I’ve always received good pointers and “watch outs” which are so valuable in the planning stages of these projects.
— Mark
Replies
You mentioned framing out and then getting a firebox. you need to do it the other way. Safety concerns dictate that installation be done exactly according to instructions that will come with the unit.
Majestic is a decent basic metal unit for under a grand plus your pipe cost. Or you might want a masonry prefab that others can comment on.
Flashing the pipe is easy enough but you have to plan it so it is not running through or near to a valley. Again, instructions come with.
Heat? If your Mrs. carries the wood for it she'll generate some heat all right.
Excellence is its own reward!
I'm in support of wood burning stoves - masonry fireplaces on outside walls are negative energy devices. If you're looking for efficient heat. I'm not familiar with the inserts, they don't make sense to me unless using gas for aesthetics, I don't see how you gain anything over a masonry fireplace because you would still have to firebrick it near as I can tell.
Anyway, if freestanding unit on the inside, the typical builder-style fireplace sucks. Two varieties are energy efficient - the old colonial, with a wide splayed back, and a rumsford-style, which doesn't give as much view of the wood but burns hot and stores the heat in the masonry.
Also, wood burning stoves are best bought around march from a store that stocks them (as opposed to the all-special order suppliers), you can get 50% off then.
remodeler
If you want info on the inserts, try
http://www.icc-rsf.com/default-eng.htm
RSF (stands for renewable solid fuel) makes some nice, high effy wood fireplaces. They are not inserts; technically, an insert fits into an existing fireplace. These are zero clearance fireplace units, EPA rated, basically as efficient as a woodstove. Make sure you provide a separate source of outside air for combustion. The TOPAZ model is capable of burnign with the door open and folded away for that fireplace atmosphere, or with the door closed for more effy.
ps the taller the chimney, the better, from experience. Build 6-8' taller than code requires, you'll get better draw.
remodeler
You can find one website at http://www.heatilator.com that may interest you. They seem to have quite a selection of what you are looking for.
Concerning construction and especially water resistance. We installed one of these "zero clearance" units when we added to our house about 15 years ago. Installation was quite straightforward. You mainly need to have some carpentry skills. The unit installs easily and the flue sections snap together. Our flue penetrated a 4 in 12 shingled roof. A roof jack came supplied with the flue kit. It was no trouble shingling around the roof jack. Just like shingling around a roof jack where a plumbing vent penetrates, only a little larger. I have no experience with any other type of roofing material so would defer to others with more experience in that area. We have had no trouble with any leaks.
"Zero clearance" actually means about 1" but definitely check the manufacturers specs. We built a hearth from 2 x 4's and plywood. The plywood hearth was capped with bricks set in mortar. I can't remember if thinset was used to bond them to the plywood or not.
At the time, the 36" wide unit sold for about $400 and included the glass doors, a circulating electric fan for the heat exchanger and also an outside air inlet. We were very happy with it and have used it many times. Hope this helps. take care.
you really should look into masonry heaters. They are "real" fireplaces and they do "real" heating. You can face them with any type of real brick or stone. I don't think cultured stone will work in this case.
i have one with an oven that we love.
spend some time at the Masonry Heater Assoc website http://www.mha-net.org
I used the Heat-Kit system check them out at http://www.mha-net.org/msb/index.htm
Good luck