FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

steel vs aluminum heat transfer plates

ndege | Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on November 4, 2009 10:11am

I’m installing a staple-up radiant heat system under an existing floor (old house, beautiful fir floors.) I have the opportunity to buy some steel heat transfer plates at an attractive price and save about $700 on the job. Can anyone speak to how these work in comparison to an aluminum plate like Uponor’s joist track?

Reply

Replies

  1. rdesigns | Nov 05, 2009 12:10am | #1

    The difference in performance will be slight since you're apparently trying to move heat upwards.

    The aluminum would have more reflective value for radiated heat, but only if there were an air space between the pipe and the plate. Anywhere the pipe touches the aluminum, it will actually transfer more heat than steel by means of conduction.

    Someone else may have hard numbers on this, but I think the $700 in your pocket tells the story with no deficiency in the system performance.

    1. NRTRob | Nov 05, 2009 05:13pm | #5

      I'm not really sure what you are trying to say? Aluminum isn't a very good radiator, but it's a great conductor... much better than steel.I believe steel is cheaper. if it were as good, you can bet it would be in much wider use than it is.-------------------------------------
      -=Northeast Radiant Technology=-
      Radiant Design, Consultation, Parts Supply
      http://www.NRTradiant.com

      1. rdesigns | Nov 05, 2009 05:56pm | #6

        Since it appears that he needs the heat to transfer up to the floor above, my thinking is that the pan underneath, if aluminum, would conduct heat essentially equally, up and down. If he insulates under the pan, whether it's steel or aluminum, the heat will take the path of least thermal resistance to the floor above. If he doesn't insulate, I think the greater conductivity of the aluminum will send more heat down than the steel.

         

        1. NRTRob | Nov 05, 2009 06:36pm | #7

          not exactly sound reasoning.heat will go where it goes in both cases... the question is, how much heat and how fast.that is what conductivity improves. more heat, faster, at a lower temperature differential.-------------------------------------
          -=Northeast Radiant Technology=-
          Radiant Design, Consultation, Parts Supply
          http://www.NRTradiant.com

          1. rdesigns | Nov 05, 2009 07:12pm | #10

            Thanks, that makes sense.

             

        2. ndege | Nov 05, 2009 06:39pm | #8

          Here's a link (http://madison.craigslist.org/mat/1442610557.html) to an ad for the steel plates.

          Uponor's joist trak, if I understand the installation method, places the tubing in a track below the aluminum plate. Just like these steel plates. Isn't heat then being conducted up against the wooden floor?

          Or is the idea to heat the air space and, as rt designs says, allow it take the path of least resistance.

          And yes, of course, insulation is necessary.

          Bird (that rare bird, a female carpenter!)

          1. ndege | Nov 05, 2009 06:42pm | #9

            If I understand your last post Rob, then aluminum is a better choice for its better conductivity. It's going to transfer heat to the floor boards more efficiently.Heating the air space between the floor and the insulation is not the main objective?

  2. User avater
    McDesign | Nov 05, 2009 12:25am | #2

    "Steel heat transfer plates" is sort of like "jumbo shrimp"

    The thermal conductivity of aluminum is about 250, in a particular set of units.  By comparison, copper is about 400, but steel is 43.

    That's it, about one-sixth as thermally conductive.

    What this means is that the plate under the floor, if steel, will have a much higher thermal gradient across its width, and a narrower "warm strip" in  the center, and hence far less radiating area.

    Since I do this in my real life, I've got some cool GrafTech graphite material that has a conductivity of 1500 (used in some cellphones).  Dip one end of a 12" strip in my coffee, and the other end is almost immediately too hot to hold.

    Interesting, the when the rep visited last week, he told me that they have gotten their price down on their lower-conductivity stuff (300-400), they're competitive with  the aluminum - and a hell of a lot easier to install - it staples up like #30 tarpaper over the tubing.  you can just push it over any errant nails.

    Check them out - http://www.graftechaet.com/eGRAF/eGRAF-Products/SPREADERSHIELD-2-D-Heat-Spreaders.aspx

    Forrest

    1. BilljustBill | Nov 05, 2009 04:47am | #3

      Carbon fiber heat plates... is it a weave material or one direction fiber held together with an epoxy?

      I have an 85 meter long roll of 6" wide carbon fiber from the days of General Dynamics and their "A-12" flying triangle fighter that was canceled...  Would this material, about the thickness of a playing card, .007, transfer heat as in using it for a solar heater collector plate under glass?

      Just trying to see what to do with this material... ;>)

      Bill

      1. User avater
        McDesign | Nov 05, 2009 05:27am | #4

        It's not carbon fiber  - it's just granular graphite, rolled and presed some way into a sheet - it's got very low mechanical strength.

        Interestingly, the good conductivity is all in-plane - through-plane is perhaps 1/100 of that!

        Forrest

  3. Clewless1 | Nov 07, 2009 06:30am | #11

    I'm with most ... aluminum transfers ... i.e. conducts heat MUCH better than steel ... that is why it is used often to transfer heat (MOST widely used for any applications for heat dissapation). There is a reason aluminum is used, a good reason.

    Save $700 w/ steel? That's a chunk, though. I only spent maybe $400 on my aluminum for my whole house. You must have a very large project.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Hole Saws That Are a Cut Above

The Spyder carbide-tipped hole saws cut quickly with a quick-release arbor that makes it easy to remove the core.

Featured Video

Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by Brick

Get an overview of the process of creating a traditional-style fireplace that burns well and meets current building codes from experienced mason Mike Mehaffey.

Related Stories

  • Podcast 549: Energy Upgrades, Chimney Inspections, and Questions About a Home You Might Buy
  • Podcast 549: Members-only Aftershow—Patios vs. Decks
  • Podcast 548: PRO TALK With Design/Build Operations Manager Jessica Bishop-Smyser
  • Strategies for Venting a Roof Valley

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

BOOKS, DVDs, & MERCH

Shop the Store
  • Pretty Good House
    Buy Now
  • 2022 Fine Homebuilding Archive
    Buy Now
  • Code Check Building 4th Edition
    Buy Now
  • 2023 Tool Guide
    Buy Now
  • Shop the Store

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 314 - April/May 2023
    • 7 Options for Countertops
    • Tool Test: Wood-Boring Bits
    • Critical Details for Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 313 - Feb/March 2023
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
    • Fine Homebuilding Issue #313 Online Highlights
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
  • Issue 312 - Dec 2022/Jan 2023
    • Tool Test: Cordless Tablesaws
    • Gray-Water System for a Sustainable Home
    • Insulate a Cape Roof to Avoid Ice Dams
  • Issue 311 - November 2022
    • 7 Steps to a Perfect Exterior Paint Job
    • Options for Smarter Home-Energy Tracking
    • The Fine Homebuilding Interview: James Metoyer
  • Issue 310 - October 2022
    • Choosing a Tile-Leveling System
    • Choosing Between HRVs and ERVs
    • Custom Built-in Cabinets Made Easy

Fine Homebuilding

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences

Taunton Network

  • Green Building Advisor
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Fine Gardening
  • Threads
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Copyright
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2023 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Shop the Store

  • Books
  • DVDs
  • Taunton Workshops

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in