Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 01, 2000 01:16pm | #1

   *
   Please do NOT nail it in to the side of the dormer.Put one nail in the roof leg of the step flashing. Put the nail high up the step so that it will be covered by the next shingle AND the next step

   Good Luck,Stephen

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 01, 2000 04:22pm | #2

   *Thanks, Stephen. That's what I've been doing, I just had a moment of self doubt.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 01, 2000 05:01pm | #3

   *Stephen, I'm a trimmer, not a roofer, but I have spent a few anguished hours on roofs. All the tear-offs that I've done had the step flashing nailed to the sidewall. I don't remember noticing any leaks. Why nail to the roof? Seems like that dooms the next guy to replacing the step flashing, when it may be in decent shape.Curious,Andy

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 02, 2000 03:48am | #4

   *It seems to me that the idea of naling into deck was sos you could work the flashing a little behind the siding on sidewall if you were going to reuse the flashing next time. Now that I've said that, I guess it would be so that you could replace the flashing next time by working it up behind siding (if it wasn't nailed into sidewall). I've always wondered why we always use 5" pieces, wouldn't bigger be better? They never seem to leak though.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 02, 2000 05:15am | #5

   *lonecat,I always figured it was 5" because of the typical exposure with regular shingles. 1 shingle, 1 step.But, I didn't invent this stuff. Just a guess.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jun 02, 2000 05:19am | #6

   *For composition roofing we use 4X4X12 prebent step flashing here in the Great Northwest. And I'm with Stephen, I always nail them at the top of the piece on the deck, but I can't honestly say why.

3. 
   Guest_ | Jun 02, 2000 07:53am | #7

   *Hi guys, The whole deal with step and counterflash is to provide a water-proof flexible joint between wall and roof. So i've insulted your intelligence, bear with me.The roof shingles move alot with hot and cold that's why even the most flexible caulks at these junctions usually fail.So if the steps are nailed to the roof and only the roof, and the counterflashing is fastened to the wall; then the two are not mechanically attached and can move independently.I like to counterflash with a servicable trim board or counterflashing that can be removed when reroofing. This way it is easy to reinstall all new steps. The opposite of this would be siding nailed over the steps that make replacement of the steps difficult.joe d

4. 
   Guest_ | Jun 02, 2000 01:12pm | #8

   *Joe D. is correct.(In fact his description of the theory behind seperate step flashing and counter flashing is even more critical in the case of a chimney flashing where the roof structure will be moving independently of the chimney)Some day that step flashing will need to be replaced. If you nail it to the wall,someone like me will be screwed.And the homeowner will very likely end up with damaged siding.If you leave the wall un-nailed it is usually simple ,but tedious,to replace the step flashing.In addition,if you nail to the wall and not the roof,it may be difficult to get a smooth appearance.The un-nailed roof leg will lift up causing a pucker in the shingles.Step flashing is 5x7 so that it can be bent into a 2x3x7 shape. the 2" leg on the wall and the 3"leg on the roof. The 7"dimension takes care of the 5 " exposure and a 2" headlap.In my area I can now get pre-bent step flashing with an 8" dimension which is nice for metric(dimensional) shingles (prebent in white,black,or brown color )Good Luck,All Stephen

5. 
   Guest_ | Jun 05, 2000 03:23pm | #9

   *I get it now. Thanks.Andy

6. 
   Guest_ | Jun 07, 2000 01:44am | #10

   *speaking of step flashing...here's our latest challenge..this is the NEW addition..five layers..wood, green asphalt, and three layers of grey, grey , and black..the garage was NOT flashed to the house when they stuck it on.. they just gooped asphalt to the clapboards..no flashing..then when the house got vinyl siding twenty years ago they covered the clapboard with backer board and sided over that...we think the main roof has seven layers...tomorrow will tell..this is a gorgeous house but not in a town or neighborhood to warrant the restoration it deserves...

7. 
   Guest_ | Jun 13, 2000 11:54pm | #11

   *all three chimneys needed new caps poured..the original ones were about a one inch cement mortar tapering to nothing at the edges..probably leaking since they were rebuilt about 50 years ago....

8. 
   Guest_ | Jun 19, 2000 03:29pm | #12

   *lonecat:Heres what the roofer did on my house where the garage rake meets the 2 story wall. This old guy just retired at age 72, so I didn't question, just did as I was told.He had me nail up a 1x4 to the sheathing, at the rake. The step flashing went up against that, and is nailed to the deck. After that is nailed and caulked, he put z- channel over that so I have a nice rake board(?) to run my claps into, and the next roofer just has to run new step flashing up under the z- bar. Very clean and tidy for the siding guy, (me), and the next roofer,(definitely not me).

9. 
   Guest_ | Jun 21, 2000 04:53pm | #13

   *Mike-Thats beautiful...I thought I had it bad. A shed (4/12) roof that was double layered at time of construction up to the skylights(halfway) to prevent leaks. Starter strip was 4 layers. I guess if 1 is sufficient that 4 is 4x that. The flashing on the skylights looks like it was done by a preschooler out of brown reynolds wrap type stock. All this was done by the owner at time of construction. Oh yeah, He was sure to tell me he pulled all those plastic strips off the shingles, so they would seal.

10. 
    Guest_ | Jun 22, 2000 02:37am | #14

    *messi , yeh,, i used to pull those plastic strips off too... then i got lazy.....

11. 
    Guest_ | Jun 22, 2000 03:37am | #15

    *The strips that have "do not remove" printed on them?

12. 
    Guest_ | Jun 22, 2000 03:42am | #16

    *hah , and u thot being lazy is always bad....hell ryan ... i'm the guy they had to start printing the ((do not remove signs for))))...hah. hah. hah