step flashing shed dormer where to nail?
I asked here about this a few months back. The previous owners used massive amounts of roof tar and caulk as flashing.
I laid a long 1X on the roof and ran the saw down the 6” clapboards and wedged in hand cut 4”x4” step fllashing 8.5” long under the tarpaper and siding and under each course of shingle.
The step flashing under each composition shingle is sorta floating upwards lifting the shingle slightly. Should I use roofing nails on the outer edge of flashing so the nail head holds the flashing down but doesnt penetrate the flashing and them use some geocel or the like.? If I did this I was planning to nail under the shingle.
The other thought was to dab geocel on the outer shingle edges and flashing and lay some thing heavy over it for awhile.
Any suggestions appreciated thanks.
Replies
Push each shingle down and nail the flashing to the wall as high as you can.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Push each shingle down and nail the flashing to the wall as high as you can. I'm gonna argue with that. I always assume that the roof will need replacing before the siding does. If the flashing is nailed to the wall, you can't get it out without buggering the siding (I always replace the flashing with shingles). To the OP - underbend your steps slightly (100 degrees or so), so when you push them in place, they spring tight against the roof and whatever you're flashing. Then nail each piece at the top to the roof where the next piece of flashing will overlap the nail.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
He cut the siding back and is putting a 1x in up the roofline.
He has the flashing up behind the siding and tar paper. If the roof needs to be replaced, the shingles come out easily without being nailed throught the flashing into the roof.
>>>>>>>>>>If the roof needs to be replaced, the shingles come out easily without being nailed throught the flashing into the roof. But, the flashings won't come out. After roofing for 25 years, I've seen more flashing leaks than shingle leaks. I probably get a call a week to fix leaks at the front corners of dormers, where whoever flashed the dormer didn't fold the corners right. If I'm gonna warrant the roof, I don't want any call backs on somebody else's flashing.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
The front corner of the dormer is where the waters getting in. Do you care to share your flashing technique there?
Yeah - I've got some stuff to finish up and I'll post a picture later.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
Hey Seeyou,I still wouldn't mind seeing that dormer corner flashing detail when you get a moment. I'm trying to think like water.
Here you go:
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Here's the front apron and the 1st step flashing. I'm doing this on the shop table, so you'll have to do a little imagining.
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Mark the apron about 2" in from the end from the top corner of the verticle flange to the fold at about 45 degrees - see the blue line.
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Make a cut and fold the roof side back down flat.
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Mark a plumb line perpendicular to the fold on the verticle part of the apron down to the fold - see the blue line.
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Make a fold back around the corner 90 degrees.
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Hold the step up to the corner of the apron and mark the back side of the step along the verticle flange of the apron.
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See the blue line on the back of the step.
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Make a cut parallel to the roof about a 1/4" up the side flange to your line and then fold the flap created back at 90 degrees. Mark a horizontal line and a verticle line to square up the sides of the flaps. You'll want to do this the same on both sides since some of this flap will be visible.
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Trim or fold along your lines.
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If you can see where the arrows point to the holes, that's where you'll nail each piece when they're installed.
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Here's how they fit together.
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Give the little flange you created when you cut the step a tap down with your hammer (right below my thumb).
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Pop rivet the two pieces together - see arrow - and continue step flashing up the side of the dormer. http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
Nice pictorial! Add that to your site?
My wife was looking over my shoulder and even she understood the steps, now THAT is saying something about your method.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
How do you make the pictures showup along with the post?
Magic. (G)
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
Thats what it seems like to me. Do I have to hit the monitor with a framing hammer?
No, jus post as usual, then preview and then revise when you revise, paste the copied from original attachment in the revision and then post.
Simple .
BTW that drill and lite I have for ya, the batts leaked all over, FUBAR...sorry.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
Attach/Upload the picture - You have to be using IE - it won't work with Firefox.Click "preview".Open the picture and copy it with the right mouse button.Hit the "back" button.Hit "revise". Paste the pic where you want it. Repeat for each pic you want to embed.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
Lets see if it works oh wise onView Imagee.
You have to OPEN the attachment and copy it.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
No big deal on the freebies, I was keeping an eye out for them. For some reason the packages get thrown over the fence and then my dog eats them. Last thing she got was 100 aluminum siding corners. LOL
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Thanks seeyou and sphere I think I got it now. Maybe.
Good job. I dunno why ya still have the little pushpin there tho'.
Yeah, I dug out the drills and lites ( I have 2 of each, 2 chargers and 2 batts) and everything electriclly wise green and fuzzy...maybe good for parts, I dunno.
At least I didn't send em any way ( G).
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
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Like this, grasshopper.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
If you were directly in front of the dormer in this how to, the step flashing detail mimics the LEFT side of a dormer? Sphere's wife got it, but I'm a slow guy in every sense .The apron you refer to rests on the roof below the dormer/window?The dormer I'm dealing with has a vinyl sliding door to a small bistro deck wiith a little stub
wall on the right. I assume it's there to blend in a 3ft long gutter that has a downspout running thru the deck underneath it and out to another gutter below the deck. If the gutter wasn't there water from the roof would just dump on the deck. I don't know if you can picture this or not.On the left side of the dormer the roof runs beside the deck behind roughly a 3ft x 3ft wall. I've only flashed the right side so far, but where my first course of step flashing is the sliding door wall drops down about 40 inches to the deck. Actually there are two more tabs of roofing beyond the slider wall before it hits the gutter. I'll try to post a photo tommorrow.I'm coming in to this project after the PO tore the place up and didn't complete the projectThanks for taking the time. I feel priviledged to receive this information as I'm just a DIY remodeler guy.
>>>>>>>>If you were directly in front of the dormer in this how to, the step flashing detail mimics the LEFT side of a dormer? >>>>>>>>>The apron you refer to rests on the roof below the dormer/window?Yes to both.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
My superior Qwest dsl had me offline for a few weeks and I'm still a nfg with posting photos. It'll probably be huge.
It looks to me that there's no corner to turn.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
I agree with the warranty issues, I just have a problem pumping nails in the business side of a flashing card.
Sure the old ones will come out, but how are you going to get the new ones in a gap big enough for overlapped shingles?
I am not questioning you, you have forgotten more about the sloped part of a house than I probably know. This is the way my old cranky boss showed me how to do it and I haven't had any call backs for leaks so I stuck with it.
>>>>>>>>>I haven't had any call backs for leaks so I stuck with it.Yeah, I know. They call me instead and I have to deal with it. You think your boss was cranky? A few more "warranty" calls where the mason didn't thru flash or the carpenters doing the siding nailed 2x4's thru my new shingles or worse yet copper panels and I'm gonna take some hostages.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
I would crack some skulls if I got a call about a nailed 2x4 through the shingles. Thats 1st grade stuff.
I take it carpenters in your area haven't heard of roof jacks yet? LOL
>>>>>>>>Sure the old ones will come out, but how are you going to get the new ones in a gap big enough for overlapped shingles? The siding should never ever be jammed down on the roof no matter what type it is. If there's a half inch or so above the roof material and the step is not nailed to the wall and the siding is not nailed within 2" perpendicular to the roof sheathing, it's a piece of cake. We usually have to pop corner boards off, but that's no big deal, IMHO.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
By the sounds of it the OP cut the siding off to the pitch of the roof leaving a few inch gap, installed step flashing and is going to nail a 1x over the step flashing.
Maybe I am wrong, have been before and will be again I am sure.
>>>>>installed step flashing and is going to nail a 1x over the step flashing. If that's the case (I didn't catch that detail), then your method is more acceptable. But, that joint will have to be caulked and the 1x painted. If it's done my way and the homeowner gets a new paint job the year before he needs a new roof, I can do my job and there's minimal if any repainting/caulking necessary when we're done (theoretically). I try to make it as easy on the other trades as possible.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
I wasn't planning to nail a 1x over the step flashing. I used 1x to cut the siding to the roof pitch as one stated. The siding after being cut is about 2.5'' above the roofing material and the step is tucked under siding and tarpaper.We had 70 mph gusts today and there's no nails on the flashing at the moment. The wind was blowing straight toward the roof area in question..
I misunderstood your post. I thought you were nailing a 1x back in over the flashing.
No worries. Somebody here mentioned using Azek along the lower portion of the siding, but I wasn't planning to.
Edited 11/16/2006 10:46 am ET by fossil
I told you I might be wrong I misread what he said.
fossil,
install a shingle.
lay your step flashing down on top of the shingle----but above the "tab portion of the shingle---generally the top 7" of the shingle.
put your nail THROUGH the top 2" of the step flashing & THROUGH the top 2" of the shingle.
each successive course of shingle and steo flashing will cover the nails---and NONE will be exposed.
Make sure that you nail through the step----and the shingle---if your step projects above the shingle and you nail through THAt area of the step------- you will allow the top edge of the shingle to act as a fulcrum--lifting up the bottom edge of the step.
you don't need any caulk----and you don't really want to nail the step to the side wall------- that will make it MUCH harder for the next guy to replace 25 years from now-----AND nailing to the wall can result in lifting the edge of the step up off the shingles as well.
there is a decent picture showing this on page 88 of the june 2005 FHB---and pretty much any roofing manual will show a very similar picture.
it goes pretty fast once you have all your step flashing handy------cutting each shingle to fit takes a few seconds each---but that's where all the time is---the step flashing doesn't take much time at all
Best wishes, Stephen
I was hoping not to replace or remove any shingles. The dormer and roof are existing, not new construction.I'll have to look at the June issue thanks.