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Stepping on people’s feet (masonry)

| Posted in General Discussion on September 14, 1999 05:41am

*
I’d go the masonry route. This way you won’t have to worry about separation due to cracking caused by freeze/thaw. Keep the pillar small (lite).

It sounds like the exist’g footing is oversized and you have the surface area (top of ftg.) to lay a masonry pillar.

First, you could dowel into the top of the concrete at the center of the future pillar. Then, work around this center w/ your choice of masonry, I’m thinking concrete masonry…; essentially, create a packed core masonry unit assembly by grouting in the center of this pillar – we are only talking a few inches like 5×5 or 8×8 right – by packing the core of this pillar you’ve created a bearing point for your anchor and/or post while solving the problem of starting this 5″ below grade.

Hope I read your post correctly. But, I think that’ll do. Your load is miniscual (sp) and the masonry can take any type of anchor – I’d use a plate w/ a welded foot to it. The guys, gals, at the Masonry Supply should be able to select for you a suitable grout.

Good luck.

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Replies

  1. Guest_ | Sep 15, 1999 08:09am | #9

    *
    I'd like to set an exterior wood post immediately next to an existing brick post. It turns out that about five inches down there is a large concrete footing of unknown depth that has apparently been stable for many years. How can I put a post anchor on this footing? I don't want to bury the anchor, because then both the anchor and post would rot. Nor do I want to break up the footing (we have a 2-ft. frost depth, not bad but not fun).

    The existing post supports a small porch and needs repointing ... normally i'd repair the whole thing but the limited purpose of the project here is to replace a desperately rotten stair so an older neighbor can get into his house without killing himself.

    My thought is to drill a hole in the footing, epoxy a bolt or threaded rod in it, and pour concrete around it up to grade. But then I figure the first freeze will break the concrete. Maybe i should mortar a second column of bricks? How would this be attached to the footing below and to the wood stringer or beam above? Help!

    1. Guest_ | Sep 12, 1999 09:51am | #1

      *Ah, c'mon everyone, is this question just too stupid, or too challenging? At this point, I'm going to drill for a bolt and a few pieces of rebar, then dump concrete on top. So there.

      1. Guest_ | Sep 12, 1999 11:26am | #2

        *Andrew - are you going to be bearing on the edge of the footing then? If so, you might consider excavating down to undisturbed soil below the frost line and enlarging the footing so you don't risk breaking off the edge of the existing one. Kind of depends on how much weight you are planning on bearing on how much footing. Hard to say without seeing the project. Be nice if you could scan in a Poloroid. - jb

        1. Guest_ | Sep 12, 1999 05:05pm | #3

          *Andrew Can you repoint part of the column and then bolt the post directly to it. Then let it sit on the existing foundation. Or if the foundation doesnt extend out to far bring a short post up just past the post you want. Then through bolt to the short post.Rick Tuk

          1. Guest_ | Sep 12, 1999 07:19pm | #4

            *Thanks guys -- I've been procrastinating on this project for months, what with the heat and mosquitoes and digging required. The existing staircase is horrible -- about a third of the risers and stringers is simply gone.jb, the concrete extends out at least a foot, and that's where I stopped digging to reassess the situation. The load I'm considering will be pretty small, probably about 8 sf @ 40lbs./sf = 320 lbs. My main concern is putting new concrete next to old, whether this will just invite frost damage.rt, the concrete is too large to move the post, or bolt another post. Fixing the brick column is the professional approach ... besides it -does- support the mini-porch! I wanted to do the stair without messing with any extra stuff -- this guy's house could become my life's work. He's been there 36 years and is about 20 years behind on maintenance.Bolting to the brick column -- I could just bolt the deck beam to it -- would i use through-bolts (anything easier)? I guess I could coax my DeWalt driver/hammerdrill to drill the holes ... slowly. Or rent the Bosch again and blast them out in two minutes. Some kind of flashing or spacing for water too, I guess... But the column is only two bricks across -- will I structurally compromise it with holes?Thanks again. I have my mind on other projects at the moment.

          2. Guest_ | Sep 12, 1999 09:10pm | #5

            *I have never liked fastening anything structural to brick, or block, unless you can get an expansion bolt into a bond beam or other poured mass. - jb

          3. PRP | Sep 14, 1999 05:41pm | #6

            *I'd go the masonry route. This way you won't have to worry about separation due to cracking caused by freeze/thaw. Keep the pillar small (lite).It sounds like the exist'g footing is oversized and you have the surface area (top of ftg.) to lay a masonry pillar.First, you could dowel into the top of the concrete at the center of the future pillar. Then, work around this center w/ your choice of masonry, I'm thinking concrete masonry...; essentially, create a packed core masonry unit assembly by grouting in the center of this pillar - we are only talking a few inches like 5x5 or 8x8 right - by packing the core of this pillar you've created a bearing point for your anchor and/or post while solving the problem of starting this 5" below grade.Hope I read your post correctly. But, I think that'll do. Your load is miniscual (sp) and the masonry can take any type of anchor - I'd use a plate w/ a welded foot to it. The guys, gals, at the Masonry Supply should be able to select for you a suitable grout.Good luck.

          4. Guest_ | Sep 14, 1999 06:40pm | #7

            *Andrew,If it were me, at this point I would simply "drill a hole in the footing, epoxy a bolt or threaded rod in it, and pour concrete around it up to grade." We're talking about what: a 6x6x6 cube of concrete? Not even a bag. To support 320 pounds? Just do it.Rich Beckman

          5. Guest_ | Sep 14, 1999 08:07pm | #8

            *"Just do it." Isn't that copyrighted or something. I agree, I just didn't want to look like (more of) an idiot. Now that I stop & think, the footing will weigh as much as the load.PRP, I'll work some of your suggestions in too. Masonry is a much more delicate and intricate subject than most people (esp. many production builders...) appreciate.

          6. Guest_ | Sep 15, 1999 08:09am | #10

            *Re: Just Do ItGrowing up, my parents entertained regularly...parties with maybe twenty people. Liqour flowed copiously in my house, and Dad always got plenty of compliments for his bartending. Once, maybe when I was ten, I decided I wanted to know what his secret was. As he was preping his "bar" area for the party I told him I was going to watch him tend the bar so I could learn his secrect. He laughed and said "I do it! That's the secret."He didn't use the phrase, but he was certainly expressing the sentiment. Everytime I hear the slogan "Just do it", I feel my mother (Dad has passed) should be getting royalties.Rich Beckman

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