I have an existing hardwood floor over a sub floor both are 3/4″. I would like to put down 3/4″ Advantek over the old hardwood with an adheasive in between and then screw the advantek down to the old hardwood. Then put down 3/4″ prefinished hardwood over the Advantek. Will this stiffen the floor and any suggestions on adhesives to use?
Jay
Replies
I wouldn`t consider strip flooring a solid subfloor. Will it stiffen it? Technically, maybe, to some degree.....any additional layer will stiffen the overall somewhat. But strip flooring by nature moves with changes in humidity. Glue may prevent certain movement...but the wood is going to find a way...splitting, cupping, raising....its going to move.
Why not pull it up and replace with a layer of 3/4" ply?
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Give us some more details on what sort of floor system you're talking about. Like is it 2X10s, I-joists, floor trusses, or what ?
Also, how far are the floor members spanning, and at what spacing?
Adding plywood on top of plywood is unlikely to accomplish anything...
A: An accordion player with a pager.
It's an older house and I need to bring the floor up 1 1/2" to be level with the kitchen floor. The size of the room is 15' x 16' and the floor joists are 16" oc 2x8 with a 4x8 fabricated beam in the middle. The basement underneath is finished with already limited head room.
With 2X8s spanning that far, more depth or adding a beam is likely to be the best solution. Unfortunately that sounds kinda messy, with a finished basement below.
People ask the difference between a leader and a boss . . . The leader works in the open and the boss in covert. The leader leaves and the boss drives. [Theodore Roosevelt]
What about sistering up two 4" or 5" 1/4" steel plates that are aprox 15' long and bolting them to two of the 2x8 s??
I have no experience with steel design, so I have no idea.
Doctors can be frustrating. You wait a month-and-a-half for an appointment, and he says, "I wish you'd come to me sooner."
You will stiffen it with regard to flex between joists, which would be significant if you were going to put down ceramic tile, etc, but you will not greatly reduce "bounce".
If the existing hardwood is one of the newer (than 30 years or so) "floating" glue/snap-together hardwood veneers or laminates then the improvement in "bounce" will be virtually nonexistent. In the case of these floorings the planks are not bonded to the subfloor at all, and you'd end up with two independent membranes, vs one thicker one. In the case of old-style nailed flooring the nails end up being the weak link, but you get a little better performance than with the newer stuff.
If you had your druthers, it would be more effective to strip the ceiling below and glue/screw the sheet material to the joists, then cover with new rock.