Replies

1. 
   Ronbaby | May 12, 2003 11:34pm | #1

   What's the span of the joists. How far apart are the 4 by 6 posts and what thickness girder is it? What's the spacing of the joists...16 o/c, 24 o/c? Regardless of all that I doubt your deck can handle it without some addition structural work to it. Unless it was drastically overbuilt, and I wouldn't think it would be.

1. 
   dmck52 | May 12, 2003 11:52pm | #2

   Saw this online. No experience with it; just looked interesting:

   http://www.stonedeck.biz/stonedeck.html

1. 
   PAPOH | May 13, 2003 05:06am | #3

   That stuff costs a fortune. I was told by one supplier $30+/sq. ft.

   He said one guy put 30,000 into a deck using it.

2. 
   skipj | May 13, 2003 06:04am | #4

   BobW,

   How bad do you want this? Cause it's gonna be spendy.

   You need to:

   1. Lose the 2x4's.

   2. Trim the joists to slope for run off. (Check with local code, some want 1/8" per 4' away from structure).

   3. Sheath the joists. (Check your local code, some want 1" exterior T&G ply).

   4. As noted in previous posts, the span of your joists will be a consideration, as will be the overhang from any beams. These considerations will typically determine the sheathing thickness.

   5. Still here? When calculating how to cut the joists, bear in mind the thickness of the sheathing, the waterproof membrane, the backer board, the mortar and the flagstone. It aint a 2x10 anymore, is it?

   6. Make sure that you can fit all of this under the existing thresholds, siding, (being sure to run the waterproof membrane up behind the siding).

   If you still want this, I can walk you through it. The last one I did, it was easier to just lose the deck, get the engineering specs, and build all new. Tapering joists, in place, accurately, is a bear.

   Note: If this is a stand alone deck, in the middle of a backyard, you will still need to cant the surface for water run-off. Where will that water go?

   Hope this helps.

   shipj

1. 
   Bobw | May 13, 2003 07:46am | #5

   Thanks for the replies.

   I may just go ahead and tear the deck out and put the stones on the ground. Just wasn't real happy with the way the steps from the 2 exit doors will look...

   Thanks again for the replies,

   Bob

1. 
   RalphWicklund | May 13, 2003 08:01am | #6

   If you lose the deck you still have options for a very nice stone terrace and stone steps from the exit doors.

   If ground level is not what you had in mind, a layer of fill (type depending on your location) could be placed, compacted and retained at any height above grade. To get from the doors to the terrace you could go a little more stable and pour a concrete base first to set the stone on. You can use curves and angles for distinction both on the steps and the body of the terrace. If you do go above grade then you can also flank a step down to grade with stone planters or seating (or wood if you want to break up the look) Try some Ipe or redwood or cedar or teak (or combination) for a contrasting look. Recess some lighting in strategic places.

   Hey look, it's only money. Take it out of your wallet so everyone can sit on it.<G>

   Edited 5/13/2003 1:03:12 AM ET by Ralph Wicklund